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Water Outlet Connector transplant from Mazda 6?


mrau92me
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Can the metal Water Outlet Connector Adapter from a 2007 or 2008 Mazda 6 2.3L be transplanted to a 2009 Ford Fusion 2.3L? See below for the basis behind my question.  Even if I don't try to use an outlet from a Mazda 6, I wonder if the moly-coated stainless steel gasket in the attached picture can be used to replace the soft rubber gasket in the plastic outlet.  According to rockauto.com, it is one of the options, but in the description it states "flat style".  It's the only Motorcraft one offered on the web site, so I believe it will work.  In fact, I think it may be an updated design, since I've seen other posts about their rubber gasket failing, not the plastic housing.

734332588_MOTORCRAFTRG618A.JPG.59df30eebaf6d57538d338061fc62815.JPG

 

Our 2009 Ford Fusion 2.3L with 150k miles has developed a leak from its Water Outlet Connector Adapter (no, not the thermostat housing). The WOCA, we’ll call it, is located above the AT on the driver side of the engine block near the top corner.  I was anticipating its failure because it’s made of plastic and the one on my friend’s 2011 Fusion basically exploded (that's how he described it) a couple of months ago. After seeing the puddle under my car, I was thinking about where I was going to buy the part, and it dawned on me that my 2007 Mazda 6 2.3L w/ 205k miles has yet to have this issue.  I went and popped open its hood and immediately see why… it’s not plastic, it’s obviously metal (probably aluminum).  My local LKQ has a 2008 Mazda 6 w/ 2.3L that I might be able to vulture the WOCA from.

Edited by mrau92me
Forgot to ask about the MC gasket.
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  • 5 months later...

I just had to replace the same thing on my 2012 2.5l. It was a pain in the ass. I went ahead and replaced the entire thing, not just the gasket. Apparently they are notorious for failing? Mine was leaking from the outlet. Took it off and noticed that the plastic itself had cracked and the gasket was also messed up. I got  a new one from the local Ford dealership and put it on. had to take the battery out, the airbox, and the mount that the battery sits on. Installed new one, bled the coolant and burped it by using the bleeder valve attached to the back of the coolant outlet itself, and so far so good. I did have a misfire code from when the air was bleeding out of the system and it burped. I felt the misfire but now it's running smoothly. Good heat. Cold AC. Temp gauge sits dead center. Fingers crossed it is fixed. I would suggest you replace the whole thing from a reputable Ford dealer. Dorman makes one that Advance sells but I was told that the quality isn't so great. The part was $39.50 from the local Ford place. 

 

image.jpeg.24ac9a050997f46b8db340a4240f5595.jpeg     

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forgot to mention the bleed valve is actually attached to the coolant outlet. It looks like a pipe / tube that isn't conected on one end. It is connected to the outlet itself. The other end says "service only" and sits just behind the outlet housing.

 

 

DTC P0128 | FordFusionClub.com

Edited by PEAC4394
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