2015 Fusion Electrical Gremlins

[Checks]

Also, I didn't clean each individual pin that had white stuff on them. I should have cleaned the contacts better

[Checks]

Happened a bunch more. Got it the dealer and they think it is the gateway module that the odbi connects to. 
 

anyways, ill report back if that actually works long term

[Checks]

It was the odbi connector

[West]

Well Checks I am back, my Fusion acted up again today, we had 103* heat of course, never happens when it is cold.   Unique this time, I pulled all the plugs out of the interior fuse box and no joy.  These are the same ones I pulled prior and the car lit back up.  This time nothing.  I will dig into this again.  I really thought it was done but it is back.  Dang  No AC, No Radio, No window or door lock control from inside.  Door locks work with the remote.   Checking my scan tool it clearly lists all the functions not working and reports unable to connect with the device, window, heated seats, AC, Radio, basically the entire center console is dead.   Maybe I blew a fuse disconnecting the harness wires from the fuse box.

 

[Checks]

Obbi

 

it controls it all

 

its the thing the scan tool plugs into for codes

[West]

Is yours now fixed????

 

[Checks]

Yes, 100%
 

call me if u want

 

Edited June 30, 2022 by Checks

[bbf2530]

1 hour ago, Checks said:

Yes, 100%
 

call me if u want

 

 

Hi Checks. It is very nice of you to offer to help others, but I would strongly recommend you remove your phone number from a public forum. It would be safer for you to send your phone number to "West" (the other forum member) in a PM.

 

Good luck.

[West]

I spoke with Checks and my problem; same exact symptoms came back again.   This time unclipping and re attaching the harness wires at the under dash fuse panel would not Light the car back up again.   I traced all the OBD2 wires with no luck.  Finally I removed the Driver seat for about the 6th time now and as soon as I disconnected the ground wires found under the front of the seat under the carpet the system fired right back up.  Instantly with no hesitation.  Not sure if this resets the problem module or how it lights it up again but when you want AC to work it is nice to know what fixes this.   

OK, now, I got out my BUBBA mask, I installed a switch on the ground wires that I found directly affected this issue.  There are multiple ground wires that all ground in the same place, held by 2 8mm bolts.  One of these wire connections has about 6 or 8 wires in that ground, it made no affect.  The other bolt held 2 wires, I think one was black and the other black and white stripe.  These two wires would disconnect or reconnect my Problem.   There is another group of wires in one mount hold down, I think that one had 4 or more wires and it did nothing to help my case.   It was the two wires that are able to get my system working proper again if removed and re connected.  To do this I have to remove the driver seat from the 4 bolts holding it down and tip it back to gain access.   OK, now for the Bubba device, I installed a switch between the 2 wires that are able to fix my issue and the ground bolt.  If I flip the switch off and then on my car is restored to full function till it happens again.  At least I don't have to remove the seat any more to make the AC work.   I know it is a Bubba repair but I have AC!   I figure it might get worse and maybe at that point the failure point will become known.

[West]

One more update, the problem came back and this time would not reset.  I pulled my bubba switch for the ground wire back out and set the wiring back to factory stock.  So, no AC, No Window control, No Door locks, No Radio plus a few more items all dead and have not come back.  Of course it is 104* again when it acts up.   

I did some reading and as Checks mentioned the OBD2 port might be connected to my problem.  This port is actually a module.  Data Link Module or Smart Data Link Module is how I have seen it referred to.  Checks had a wire issue feeding that Data link and they fixed his car by replacing a wire.  

I don't know yet what my exact issue is but at least it finally has totally shut down so I am forced to find the problem.   I went and ordered a new Data Link Module, this is part of the OBD2 connection.  I am replacing the Module because to me a wire issue is usually a firm failure where a module failure can come and go?  My thinking on this one.  The new module won't come in for 5 days or so so I will wait and hope that solves the issue.  If the problem is solved I think I should go back and edit all the previous posts to avoid sending future owners on a goose chase.  

Reading on the Ford Truck Forum many owners had this same issue and it was connected to the Data Link Module, this module looks for feedback from several of the car systems and if it does not see what it needs to see it just shuts them all down.   On the Ford F150 forum the truck has a module in the taillights, if moisture gets in the tail lights the F150 shuts down the same circuits as my car.   Not sure who thought this type connectivity in the car was a good idea but I think they should get back to thinking systems should work at all times even if a tail light fails!   

[West]

Received and installed the new Data Link Module, no joy, exact same issues still there.   I have searched and not found an electrical schematic for the 2015 Ford Fusion.  I found a couple companies that claim to sell it for $60-69 which would be fine but the reviews said they don't actually give you what you think you are buying so I did not go there.

I found a factory wire schematic book on Ebay for this car brand new for under $40.  Need to wait a week for arrival.   That should let me trace the wires to find the failure.

Thanks

 

Mark

Edited July 25, 2022 by West

[Chris765]

On 7/25/2022 at 4:08 AM, West said:

West!!!! 2014 Ford Fusion same problem diff motor no turbo no eco boost... Same thing center dash failure no climate controls no radio door locks so on driver side window doesnt work the other 3 windows do not on there door panel only driver side main panel control all is dead. I would unhook the battery and it would re-set it for a short time untill trigger again, just by observing ( cause I've done it 45x just a random guess of number but alot more then 25 ) i narrowed it down to what I though was the driver side door shutting would trigger it and kill all stated above, again i would disconnect battery wait few re-connect be back fine everytime now it did it not after doing it for maybe a 5 or 6 month break hasnt happened once it did now again I got gas at gas station got in car got back in and now I've discconnected the battery and the battery wont re-start it or it hasnt yet!!!! Never has it done that, I have just taped around on the floor board n under hood reading from another forum everybody n there brother who owns one has it happen same thing and everyone has took it back dealer ship up to 5x with no avail. Car guys website google 2014 ford fusion driver side door doesnt work and center dash ull find it there. Well I was have u fixed the problem??? I need help lol pleaseee

[Brent892]

Hey guys, i have a 2015 se with the 2.0 and have had the exact same issue as everyone else. Odd thing is my car has the factory sunroof and that will function like normal wben the symptoms arise which helps when your dying of heat. Also my radio will turn on if i press the power button just like it does if im parked with the ignition off and my phone remains paired as well. Condition only appears on the hottest days of the year when your wanting the air the most. As crazy as this sounds, about a year ago i was leaving work in July when the symptoms occured and out of frustration i slammed my fist down on the dash and the issue corrected itself. Ever since i have fixed the problem the same way each time it happens, 1-5 medium hits to the top of the dash between the 2 middle air vents or to the passenger side of the stack just to the left of the glove box fixes it everytime. I know it sounds absolutely crazy but it works and i usually have to do this anywhere from 3-5 times a summer on the hottest days of the year. Never does it any other time. Im sure it directly relates to a module of some sort in the upper dash just behind the radio. Im fairly mechanically inclined but very hesitant to start pulling wires or removing parts as i dont want to create a bigger issue. Other than this gremlin, this has been one of the best cars i have ever owned and dont want to jeopardize something else going wrong if i can correct it with a swift smack of my hand....lol. I forgot to add that it only has 49,000 miles on it has the factory 8 inch screen with sync and navigation. Figured i would share my more cave man approach to fixing this in hopes it helps others. 

[West]

MIne started acting up again and like you Brent and Chris it seems to happen when it is very hot out although it did happen one time to me first thing in the morning when it was less than 80* outsde.

My most recent update:  I removed the BCM it is up under the dash left side of the steering wheel.   I cleaned all the connectors and plug ins.   It has only been 2 weeks but in 100* heat it has not failed again yet.   I bought an extra BCM from the wrecking yard, only $75, worth it for a test.   Unfortunately everything in my dash worked fine but that dang replacement BCM would not program to my keys so the car would not start.   The used BCM had corrosion in the exact same places as my BCM did on removal.  Makes me wonder if somehow moisture gets into the connections.   I used some dielectric grease on those connections when I installed it again.   The used BCM came back out and my BCM went in and so far no failures have taken place but I do not trust it at all yet.

I also replaced the OBD2 connector and module which made no difference.  I did not find any wires that failed so far.

 

One constant when I scan this car.  It always comes back and says "Failure to communicate with your Rear View Camera, I forget the codes".   Can look them up if needed.    The camera works every time I put the car in reverse.   What does not work are the lines that show which direction your steering wheel is turning.   I don't know if this feature ever worked on this car but it does not work now.   It shows the rear view, it shows the lines indicating straight back but the lines are fixed they don't move when you turn the steering wheel.   You guys know what it should be doing?   Mine also has the sunroof but I never use it for any reason, I should have thought of using it when Temps went over 120* inside that car with no AC.

Mark

[Eliel Oliveira]

On 5/16/2022 at 5:02 PM, West said:

I think #5 was the problem although I would check #1 also.  I replied earlier today but I don't see my reply?  Maybe it will show up later.

My problem came back one more time two weeks ago.   I went back in to that same fuse panel and when I pulled off #5 I saw the same issue with a little corrosion on the large spade connectors, there are two in the top right of that white connector.   I cleaned with electric cleaner and used a small amount of dielectric grease on them this time.  The car is fixed and has not repeated the failure.   Thinking about this problem I was wondering if that connection at the spade terminals might be loose?   A loose connection can cause it to glaze over just like Points in the old gas engines did.   I will look to tighten them if the problem ever comes back.  If they are not loose I think moisture is somehow getting in there.

Did you have the problem again? 

[West]

Late follow up.   I thought this was fixed, after 7 months I actually sold this car with only 26,000 miles on it.  I have a 2012 Mercedes E350 also and decided I did not need both cars and I prefer to drive the E350.  Both are nice cars this was just a personal choice on which to sell.   Update, so no issue for 7 months, I sold the car, new buyer calls after 2 months and the problem came back on them.   They put it in a shop for sevral days, shop called and said they did not have time to fix it and gave it back no charge.  They took it to Ford, Ford had it a few days and called back to say they don't have time to fix it, No charge.   Now the car not only has the problem of the center console going out, shutting down the AC, Radio, Windows and Door locks.   Now new issue,  Driver seat will not adjust back, will go forward but not back?   Heated seat buttons are dead, Rear Window defrost is dead?    One of the shops did this damage.  Neither claims responsibility.   The buyer of this car was most upset.   I bought it back from him.

Now with 29,000 miles on a 2015 Fusion SE 2.0L Turbo.    

I have spent the last 2 weeks tracing, replacing and checking everything.    The seat was an easy fix, so it adjusts again now.

I have the ability to do electrical work but I hate it so try to avoid this type work.   I have a good bi directional scan tool to read the computer, I have the Ford Forscan system, I have an oscilloscope to watch the CAN BUS wires as they work and read the signals as it runs looking for the odd issue.

I have traced the problem down but not identified the actual cause.   The Fusion has 4 Can Bus wire systems.  Each system has a + and - wire.   Each system twists these can bus wires together like a braid full length.   The braid is supposed to reduce electrical interference.   If you see braided wires you know they are communication wires.

The sytems are.   HS1, HS2, HS3 and MS Can.   After testing all 4 systems I know that the only system that can affect Every single one of the failure issues is the HS1 which is the same system you can tap into at your OBD 2 Port Pin 6 and 14.  Pin 6 is the one that will cause everything if grounded.   AC out, Radio Dead, Center console dead, Windows don't work, door locks don't work.   All affected by HS1 or Pin 6 at the OBD2 Port.  DLC, Data Link Connector.

Testing the other Can Bus wires some would shut down some of the systems but only the HS1 can shut down everything when grounded. 

Knowing this the HS1 is connected to the PCM, main car computer,  BCM, the body control module, APIM, Accessory Protocol Interface Module, The DLC or OBD2 port and splices at Splice 17 left side of dash by the BCM and splice 124.   

Anytime the failure happens the AC shuts off along with all other issues.  Any time it comes back on the car chimes announce the system is waking up again.   Touch ground to Pin 6 and you create the issue each and every time.  There is about a 10 second delay from touching Pin 6 at the OBD2 Port to ground and when everything shuts off.

 

When the console goes dead, if you driver side windows still work your problem is not on the HS1 Can Bus network.   Only the HS1 kills the windows also when grounded.

 

The ground can be in any of the Modules or the PCM, it can be in any of the HS1 Can Bus wires.  It can be in any of the splices which are all wrapped inside the wire harness.   I don't pretend to be an electrical guy but watching the scope while testing the wires and modules allows you to see change when it happens tracing these issues.   Some modules are not expensive, better to just replace and test rather than waste time testing some.   Ford Forscan shows my modules working properly but does show communication issues on some others.

I write this for therapy and to help guide the next poor soul chasing this stuff.   Since so many things function off of the can bus network any of them can trigger the shut down.

FYI:  I did discover the Puddle lamp in my driver mirror was dead.   Reading on the F150 forums they claim even this can cause the AC shut down?   Not sure if that is true but I replaced the light.

For now I am focused on trying to fix the Heated Seats and Rear Window defrost ( thanks to quality work by the shops) If I find smoking gun I will report back.   This is an extra car so I am able to leave it down while fixing it.  This would be impossible if you needed it for daily transportation.

 

Another poster claims you can get the AC and center console working again by taking your Key Fob, Click Unlock 2 times, click Lock 2 times, Now hold Lock for 10 seconds.  They claim this resets it and you can driver normal with AC.   I have not tested to see if this works but worth a try.

Anyone know how to fix the Heated seats and Rear Window defrost?   The dash buttons are dead, no lights come on when pressed.   Odd, My Scan Tool can turn on the heated seats and they heat up so the funtion seems to be fine the command on is missing.

Thanks

Mark

Edited August 14, 2023 by West

[WKelley]

Truly a car owner's worst nightmare, I wish I had better advice than just checking the harnesses involved to try and find a damaged or corroded wire.  

 

Not sure if your scan tool can tell you when you are hitting switches, that might be another thing to look at as far as data.  There are so many wires, I realize I am talking about needles in haystacks, good luck.

[West]

Some Progress to report on my 2015 Ford Fusion SE.   Searching for the reason the Center Console keeps going dead, killing my AC, Radio, Window controls, Door Locks, and more.

I was searching under the carpet and pad, in front of the driver seat along the left side body of the car.   In a wire harness that must have 50 wires in it, taped loose from the factory I noticed some green dust on the floorboard?  Close inspection with a magnifier and bright lights I see this is electrical dust?   Carefully going through the 50 wires in this bundle I found one Purple wire with a white stripe this seems to be the source of my green dust?   If you blow up the photos you can see the spot I found and again, this is a small wire and the problem is very small, hard to spot.   At the center of the green dust in the wire bundle I found the problem wire violet with white stripe was cut or split right at this point.  Given it made connection sometimes and worked but not all the time I think it sometimes touched and connected and then later did not.  This violet/white wire becomes 2 white wires about 2 inches from this failure point.  I soldered in a short piece of wire to make this repair so the broken wire is now repaired.

Since I have owned this car my Scan Tool has told me the Rear View Camera is not communicating???   The Camera seems to work perfectly every time I use reverse so I was not too worried about this message from the scan tool.  Also Ford has a memo out telling the techs that they can ignore this rear view camera code and it will cause zero issues?   So the Camera communications is fixed, works every time now.  The car has not acted up again, I think it may be fixed.

 

Now to fix what is left, this car was put in another shop for several days and then it spent 3 or 4 days in the Ford Dealer.   One of these shops messed up the Heated Seats and Rear window defogger.   I have them coming on now but not till the car has been run for a few minutes?   Not sure why the delay?   Scan tool says the Push Buttons on the FCIM are being disabled because one is stuck.   I have tried two FCIM's with the same result so this issue is somewhere else.   I still need this fixed if you have any ideas.   Thanks

PS:  using my scan tool, Oscilloscope, Multi meter, Test light and two wire diagrams I have been looking for about 3 weeks now to find this problem.   It has plagued others for a long time also.  Makes me wonder if this wire harness was pinched in some way at the factory causing this and several cars had the same issue.   The black strap in the photo was used to hold the wire harness up for inspection, it is not tight it is just holding it in position, I hooked it to the brake pedal to anchor it.

This photo is not clear but I saw about a 3/4" circle of green dust under the wire harness on the floor in this location.  When in place the wire look lays right on the floor on the metal.  It only has a little electrical tape around the wire loom but it is under the carpet and carpet pad and against the side of the car where it can't be stepped on.

The Pictures make it hard to see but on the floor here you see a little white area, in sunlight it showed as green dust which was electrical dust.

 

I am using my hook tool to lift the Violet and white stripe wire away from the harness.  The green glob is where the wire failed.  I put a splice in there and covered it with shrink wrap.  It fixed issues in my car.

After wiping off the green electrical dust this hole in the violet/white wire was there.  Note no copper wire in this spot the wire was corroded away in this spot.  I think it only functioned when the wires were bent just right and connected.  When the wires are in the proper place these lay right on the floor board.  The strap seen is pulling them up gently so I could view and repair the harness.   

Edited January 12 by West
Corrections

[Murkus]

Hello, i have the same problem, now for 3 years, no solution yet, the ford dealer wanted to rewire the whole car for 3000€ without waranty that that is the problem

[Murkus]

Hello 

I have just wickled all the wires under the right seat and cleaned sockets, my car resetted  and works again after 2 months not working, i hope it last now..! 

[bbf2530]

4 hours ago, Murkus said:

Hello 

I have just wickled all the wires under the right seat and cleaned sockets, my car resetted  and works again after 2 months not working, i hope it last now..! 

 

Hi Murkus. Do you own a European Fusion or a Mondeo?

 

Good luck.

[Murkus]

Mondeo vignale 2016

[WKelley]

If you can wiggle a wiring harness and it causes things to work then you need to open that harness until you find the bad wire.  It's not a fun job and most mechanics won't do it, but straight replacing the harness is also a bit much considering it is likely that the bulk of the harness is fine.  Anyone that does wiring type work would do it but the cost won't be cheap.

Edited September 1, 2023 by WKelley

[West]

A follow up, car is working perfectly still, the heated seats and defrost both are also working perfect.  That one damaged violet and white stripe wire caused all failures in this car.  It is tiny, maybe 22 gauge but what a headache it caused.