oem O2 sensor information

[mmtphoto]

does anyone know the OEM manufacturer of the B1S1 sensor for a 2010 fusion Hybrid (117,000 miles)?  Getting the P0130 and removed it, cleaned it up but could not find any markings/written information on it, so I cleaned it up good with mass air flow cleaner and reinstalled it.  Did make it better, can drive it a few times now before the CEL comes back on, prior to this virtually every second start I'd get the 0130, and we are getting 36-38 mpg so it seems to run well.  The upstream sensor is more important than the downstream, so I want to just replace it with an OEM unit.  Information is greatly appreciated

Edited July 30, 2021 by mmtphoto

[bbf2530]

6 hours ago, mmtphoto said:

does anyone know the OEM manufacturer of the B1S1 sensor for a 2010 fusion Hybrid (117,000 miles)?  Getting the P0130 and removed it, cleaned it up but could not find any markings/written information on it, so I cleaned it up good with mass air flow cleaner and reinstalled it.  Did make it better, can drive it a few times now before the CEL comes back on, prior to this virtually every second start I'd get the 0130, and we are getting 36-38 mpg so it seems to run well.  The upstream sensor is more important than the downstream, so I want to just replace it with an OEM unit.  Information is greatly appreciated

 

Hi mmt. The quickest and easiest way to find the answer may be to call, or preferably stop by, the Parts Department of your local Ford Dealer and ask them for the part number.

 

Good luck.

[drolds1]

If you enter the code in the 'Search' box above, you'll find plenty of info on the subject, including replacement parts.

 

[VonoreTn]

I got the code, which told me it was the upstream O2 sensor so I got the BOSCH 17475 Actual OE Oxygen Sensor from Rock Auto, $67, at 101,000 miles, in November 2014.  I replaced it myself.  I had to take the heat shield off to get a wrench on the base of it. Taking the heat shield off was not as hard as I thought it would be.  I'm at 152,000 miles now, no more issues.  They still sell them there.

 

My mpg average, based on 100% record of all gas purchases is 39.35.   What hurts the mpg number is 4-5 times a week I drive the car one mile uphill to our development tennis courts, on a cold engine. ?  On the road I always get at least 40 still.  I had the engine computer code rewrite done, to allow the engine off mode to continue below 46 mph.  Thank you Jack Weiss, forum buddy. 

[mmtphoto]

i had removed the sensor and tried cleaning it with MAF cleaner, but that didn't work even though it looked as new, and started looking into finding a bosch unit, but saw such a wide variation in prices that i figured i'd look again at what other options that might work...although the car runs and performs like it always had, getting 36-37 mpg average consistently tank to tank, i wanted to eliminate the CEL i kept getting basically every other time i started the car.  so i found a post by someone who did this-he soaked the O2 sensor (not the wiring/connector, just the sensor itself) in gasoline overnight, occasionally shaking the sensor so that the gas would work into the holes that circle the sensor.  even though i thought it was pretty clean and felt this was one of those 'how can it hurt?' kind of things, on checking the sensor the next morning was surprised to see that the gas went from being crystal clear to having a grayish tint with what looked to be fine dark particles suspended in the mixture.  i dried it off with a microfiber towel, then blew it dry with my air compressor.  that was about 1500 miles ago now, and no more codes, am getting slightly better mileage the past two tanks (from 37 to 38/39) and it might be my imagination or wishful thinking but it does seem somewhat smoother too.  not getting the CEL relieves me of the worry that i might damage the engine or cat, and the minor increase in gas mileage convinces me that this cleaning method produces positive results.  saving $100 to $175 doesn't hurt either as i am on a very fixed income and at my age (68) the money not spent could go to better things, like EXPENSIVE GAS and INFLATION now that we are all woke or something.  some times you gotta do what you gotta do, hopefully this will help out someone else. 

it might be worth a try for someone in a similar situation like myself and in my case it worked.  i will add that the permanent code i was getting (P0130) has cleared itself which indicates that this is a workable solution.  you cannot clear a 'permanent' code unless the problem has been fixed and it takes numerous starts without the code for this to clear itself, there is no other way to reset a permanent code the problem has to be corrected and verified by the ECM.

Edited August 22, 2021 by mmtphoto

[VonoreTn]

Good job.  I didn't know you could clean an O2 sensor, I thought they either worked or they didn't work.  I agree on the unnecessary increase in gas prices too.

[MikeFusionH]

don't know why this post lists me as 'MikeFusionH' but i am the original OP (mmtphoto) so this is weird-anyway thought I'd do a follow up-

 

I drove this car with the cleaned O2 sensor for about 2400 miles, and had to clear a CEL light probably 3 times so I got a new sensor and no more issues.  it seemed to run smoother and gas mileage was marginally improved.  shortly after replacing it, my wife had an issue on the interstate where the car lost power and the 'wrench' light came on indicating limp mode.  she called and i told her to get to the side of the road and shut it down and restart it.  she drove it home and we left it sitting while i could scan it to see what was up-no codes, so on investigating i found that the throttle body was the probable cause of this problem.  this 2010 has about 118,000 miles and i always periodically clean the throttle body, but the consensus was that the oem throttle body was defective.  i found one on line for about $60 and a gasket for $12, installed it (15 minutes total if that).  I disconnected the neg cable and attached a jumper from the loose ground to the pos cable to power down the system, started it up and let it idle for 10 minutes with the ac running.  then i drove it gently for another 20 minutes.  finally i did a HVB balance using my scanner.  the removed throttle body was clean on top but the bottom of the throttle plate was nasty.  these changes (new O2 sensor, throttle body, reset computer and rebalance of the HVB) now gets gas mileage up to close to 40 mpg as opposed to the 35 mpg it was getting.  So other than oil changes, these repairs and doing the rear brakes at 94,000 miles this car is still stock and gets 40 mpg, is full sized,  and looks/runs great. 

the ni-mh batteries after balance were within .01 volt and it still has great performance in HV and ICE modes.  Love this car and hope to get more years out of it plus I might consider, when the time comes, getting a new battery pack just to drive it more years.  Ford hit a home run with these cars IMO.

Edited October 19, 2021 by MikeFusionH