JAlexS Posted October 10, 2021 Share Posted October 10, 2021 So the other day after a long drive in stop and go traffic in the hot Florida heat, just as I am within 4 miles from home and sitting at a red light, the little yellow wrench symbol comes on on my dash. The car starts to stutter when it I begin to accelerate while in EV mode, but runs normal once it switches to the ICE. And as I got home, it seemed to not even want to switch to EV. However, once I get home and let it sit for a few hours, I turn it on and the wrench light went away and it runs fine now. So my questions are: What exactly happened? Is it something I need to worry about? And is there a part I need to replace so this doesn't happen again? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbf2530 Posted October 10, 2021 Share Posted October 10, 2021 (edited) 10 hours ago, JAlexS said: So the other day after a long drive in stop and go traffic in the hot Florida heat, just as I am within 4 miles from home and sitting at a red light, the little yellow wrench symbol comes on on my dash. The car starts to stutter when it I begin to accelerate while in EV mode, but runs normal once it switches to the ICE. And as I got home, it seemed to not even want to switch to EV. However, once I get home and let it sit for a few hours, I turn it on and the wrench light went away and it runs fine now. So my questions are: What exactly happened? Is it something I need to worry about? And is there a part I need to replace so this doesn't happen again? Hi JAlexS. The unfortunate truth is that the answer to all three of your questions is that there is no way to accurately give a blind Internet guess "What exactly happened", or if you "...need to worry about it", or if there "is there is a part you need to replace..." The best advice I can give is to take your car to your nearest big box auto store (I.e. AutoZone) that reads DTC's for free, and see if there are any stored codes. If there are stored codes, post the codes here. But without a place to start, there is no way to give any sort of accurate advice where to begin looking or what to do. Keep in mind that some codes will drop out of memory after a certain number of trouble free drive cycles (If the problem does not reoccur). So the sooner you have the OBDII system checked and read, the better. Keep us updated and good luck. Edited October 10, 2021 by bbf2530 Typo corrrection. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAlexS Posted October 10, 2021 Author Share Posted October 10, 2021 3 minutes ago, bbf2530 said: Hi JAlexS. The unfortunate truth is that the answer to all three of your questions is...There is no way to accurately give a blind Internet guess "What exactly happened", if you "...need to worry about it", or "is there is a part you need to replace..." The best advice I can give is to take your car to your nearest big box auto store (I.e. AutoZone) that reads DTC's for free, and see if there are any stored codes. If there are stored codes, post the codes here. But without a place to start, there is no way to give any sort of accurate advice where to begin looking or what to do. Keep us updated and good luck. Will there still be a code although the wrench went away? I'll take it tomorrow to Autozone and see what they say. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbf2530 Posted October 10, 2021 Share Posted October 10, 2021 1 minute ago, JAlexS said: Will there still be a code although the wrench went away? I'll take it tomorrow to Autozone and see what they say. Hi JAlexS. Sometimes yes. Sometimes no. DTC codes can be kept in memory after the Engine Light or other warning light no longer illuminates. However, it all depends on what the underlying cause of problem was/is...Whether the underlying problem set a DTC code/codes in the first place (not everything does)...Whether you have driven too many trouble free drive cycles since the DTC code first set etc. etc. All you can do is have the system read for any stored DTC codes and go from there. And keep in mind that a Ford Dealaer can read for more DTC codes than most third party shops/auto stores. But at least you can start somewhere by having your vehicle read for DTC codes at an AutoZone or other big box auto store. Keep us updated and good luck. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VonoreTn Posted October 10, 2021 Share Posted October 10, 2021 (edited) Some questions. How many miles on it, and is the electric fan coming on? Sounds like the heat might be involved. Make sure your coolant levels are at the correct levels. Follow bbf2530's advice, his recommendations are perfect. I have saved a lot of money by having a DTC code reader. My 2010 FFH is still getting 40 mpg at 153K miles. Virtually no problems, and this forum has been a big help in solving issues without expensive repairs. Edited October 10, 2021 by VonoreTn additions 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAlexS Posted October 10, 2021 Author Share Posted October 10, 2021 14 minutes ago, VonoreTn said: Some questions. How many miles on it, and is the electric fan coming on? Sounds like the heat might be involved. Make sure your coolant levels are at the correct levels. Follow bbf2530's advice, his recommendations are perfect. I have saved a lot of money by having a DTC code reader. My 2010 FFH is still getting 40 mpg at 153K miles. Virtually no problems, and this forum has been a big help in solving issues without expensive repairs. What electric fans? I assume you're talking about some fans that cool the EV system? Since if it was the fans attached to my radiator, my car would have been overheating, which it wasn't. Currently sitting at 92,000 miles. Both coolant reservoirs are at the appropriate fill levels. Though, I wouldn't mind changing both out with some new stuff (one of the few fluids I haven't changed since I bought the car). Is there a thread on how to change the EV coolant for these cars? Or hell, even a how-to for the ICE one too would be nice. I will go to see if any codes are showing up. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAlexS Posted October 10, 2021 Author Share Posted October 10, 2021 Well, I went to autozone and used their scan tool. This is what I got It was all associated with the ABS and not the powertrain according to the print out. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbf2530 Posted October 11, 2021 Share Posted October 11, 2021 (edited) Hi JAlexS. If you Google each DTC code (i.e. "DTC U0155-87", "DTC U0001-88" etc), you can find an explanation, causes, and how to begin troubleshooting. If one of our tech members sees this thread and can help, I am sure they will jump in. Let us know how you make out and good luck. Edited October 11, 2021 by bbf2530 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeFusionH Posted October 14, 2021 Share Posted October 14, 2021 (edited) it is the throttle body i can almost guarantee it-look online there were so many issues with these that Ford did a recall and did not include the fusion HYBRID in spite of the fact it is the identical part number. it will cost about 75 bucks total and is very easy to replace, i just did mine at 118,000 exact same symptoms. the electronic part of the TB that is plastic and black is the culprit and years of heat soak cause it to go bad but you cannot buy just that part, you have to get the entire TB.i bought both the throttle body and gasket on amazon for a total of about $72 and it took all of about 15 minutes to replace it. no more problems, well-known issue. Edited October 14, 2021 by MikeFusionH 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAlexS Posted November 20, 2021 Author Share Posted November 20, 2021 Well guys it did it again this afternoon on the damn hwy no less. Car seems like it goes in limp mode and I can't accurate. Pulled off to the side of the road, turned the car off for 20 seconds, turned it back on and back to normal, even the wrench went away. Drove it the last 30 miles to my parents house without another issue. What the hell could it be? Is it an electrical issue where something is sorting out when it reaches a certain temp? It was in the low/mid 70's in FL this afternoon, so it couldn't have overheated, right? Any ideas? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAlexS Posted November 20, 2021 Author Share Posted November 20, 2021 On 10/14/2021 at 10:13 AM, MikeFusionH said: it is the throttle body i can almost guarantee it-look online there were so many issues with these that Ford did a recall and did not include the fusion HYBRID in spite of the fact it is the identical part number. it will cost about 75 bucks total and is very easy to replace, i just did mine at 118,000 exact same symptoms. the electronic part of the TB that is plastic and black is the culprit and years of heat soak cause it to go bad but you cannot buy just that part, you have to get the entire TB.i bought both the throttle body and gasket on amazon for a total of about $72 and it took all of about 15 minutes to replace it. no more problems, well-known issue. Dang, I am just seeing this. Would cleaning out the TB which TB cleaner work too? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmtphoto Posted November 23, 2021 Share Posted November 23, 2021 it is the throttle body, get one off amazon for about 70 bucks with gasket it is a 15 minute swap. i had the same issue and tried cleaning mine which did not work-it has nothing to do with the cleanlyness of the unit, the electronics under the black plastic side piece is the issue, you need to replace the entire TB since Ford does not sell this part individually,. it was a recalled part but Ford did not include the hybrid since they were not high production models. believe it, this is the issue. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAlexS Posted November 29, 2021 Author Share Posted November 29, 2021 On 10/14/2021 at 10:13 AM, MikeFusionH said: it is the throttle body i can almost guarantee it-look online there were so many issues with these that Ford did a recall and did not include the fusion HYBRID in spite of the fact it is the identical part number. it will cost about 75 bucks total and is very easy to replace, i just did mine at 118,000 exact same symptoms. the electronic part of the TB that is plastic and black is the culprit and years of heat soak cause it to go bad but you cannot buy just that part, you have to get the entire TB.i bought both the throttle body and gasket on amazon for a total of about $72 and it took all of about 15 minutes to replace it. no more problems, well-known issue. On 11/23/2021 at 10:04 AM, mmtphoto said: it is the throttle body, get one off amazon for about 70 bucks with gasket it is a 15 minute swap. i had the same issue and tried cleaning mine which did not work-it has nothing to do with the cleanlyness of the unit, the electronics under the black plastic side piece is the issue, you need to replace the entire TB since Ford does not sell this part individually,. it was a recalled part but Ford did not include the hybrid since they were not high production models. believe it, this is the issue. We'll you two were right on the money! mmtphoto, you were right, cleaning it did not work lol it went right back to doing it and it actually may have got worse cause it did it like 5 times on the way to my parents house for Thanksgiving - very dangerous since it was on the hwy and I had to pull to the side several times to turn off the car and turn it back on. So yes, if anyone runs into this thread trying to figure out the same issue, save yourself some time and just replace the throttle body. This is the one I bought from Amazon for ~$70 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLSC0B2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details The manufacture/brand is TechSmart. Amazon or RockAuto is the cheapest place I could find it - under $75. It is the same product number and brand that O'reilly had when I went to go check, only they were asking about $140. If you need it asap and can't wait for shipping then get it here, otherwise the places I mentioned is the cheapest route. I've already put 100 miles and no code or things of that nature. What a relief. Big thanks to those that helped! 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmtphoto Posted November 29, 2021 Share Posted November 29, 2021 (edited) 14 hours ago, JAlexS said: We'll you two were right on the money! mmtphoto, you were right, cleaning it did not work lol it went right back to doing it and it actually may have got worse cause it did it like 5 times on the way to my parents house for Thanksgiving - very dangerous since it was on the hwy and I had to pull to the side several times to turn off the car and turn it back on. So yes, if anyone runs into this thread trying to figure out the same issue, save yourself some time and just replace the throttle body. This is the one I bought from Amazon for ~$70 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLSC0B2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details The manufacture/brand is TechSmart. Amazon or RockAuto is the cheapest place I could find it - under $75. It is the same product number and brand that O'reilly had when I went to go check, only they were asking about $140. If you need it asap and can't wait for shipping then get it here, otherwise the places I mentioned is the cheapest route. I've already put 100 miles and no code or things of that nature. What a relief. Big thanks to those that helped! Glad it helped, i also wrote the same thing but somehow it ended up 'MikeFusionH' on an older reply, don't know how that happened since I don't remember ever using that name but I am getting old...the problem has nothing to do with the cleanliness of the TB, it is the electronics that go through heat soak over the years. Ford recalled hundreds of thousands of this TB in numerous models and years but excluded the FFH even though it is the EXACT part number. Like the fix Allen discovered 3-4 years ago concerning the 'date' the ECU thinks the HVB is, there is a wealth of information on this site that makes owing one of these less daunting. Your average repair shop will have no clue how to diagnose this platform concerning driveline issues, so you will get better answers here in almost any situation. I will even include the dealers as they treat this like some stepchild when it is taken if for issues. Quote Edited November 29, 2021 by mmtphoto 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAlexS Posted December 4, 2021 Author Share Posted December 4, 2021 On 11/29/2021 at 10:18 AM, mmtphoto said: Glad it helped, i also wrote the same thing but somehow it ended up 'MikeFusionH' on an older reply, don't know how that happened since I don't remember ever using that name but I am getting old...the problem has nothing to do with the cleanliness of the TB, it is the electronics that go through heat soak over the years. Ford recalled hundreds of thousands of this TB in numerous models and years but excluded the FFH even though it is the EXACT part number. Like the fix Allen discovered 3-4 years ago concerning the 'date' the ECU thinks the HVB is, there is a wealth of information on this site that makes owing one of these less daunting. Your average repair shop will have no clue how to diagnose this platform concerning driveline issues, so you will get better answers here in almost any situation. I will even include the dealers as they treat this like some stepchild when it is taken if for issues. I applied Allen's fix as soon as I got the car. It's loving this Florida "winter" and getting better MPG than before. Though I find it weird that the throttle body gets heat soak since the it's right where you want it to be to get proper air flow. But I really like this car. Best MPG I've gotten compared to my other daily drivers - 2009 Accord 4 cylinder & 2014 Camry 4 cylinder. I plan to drive this car until I decide to go full electric. The Ford Lightning is one I am looking at but that won't be on my radar for another couple of years at least 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lolder Posted December 8, 2021 Share Posted December 8, 2021 The throttle body may have carbon-ed up and stuck. They can be cleaned but for $70 it's easier to replace them. My car went to my grandson 3 years ago and was rear ended and totaled last spring with no injuries. My Tesla Model 3 is 3 1/2 years old. Go EV now with a Tesla. If it's too expensive, work harder or sell the house and live in the car. It's the "Revolutionary Future, Today". 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAlexS Posted December 8, 2021 Author Share Posted December 8, 2021 3 hours ago, lolder said: The throttle body may have carbon-ed up and stuck. They can be cleaned but for $70 it's easier to replace them. My car went to my grandson 3 years ago and was rear ended and totaled last spring with no injuries. My Tesla Model 3 is 3 1/2 years old. Go EV now with a Tesla. If it's too expensive, work harder or sell the house and live in the car. It's the "Revolutionary Future, Today". lol Yeah no way i am selling the house. But will eventually go EV, it will just be for a Ford Lightning. A truck would be much more useful for my hobbies and lifestyle. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAlexS Posted January 15, 2022 Author Share Posted January 15, 2022 Ok, how the are you guys doing the idle reset? I've come across numerous threads of doing this and was hoping i could get a clear answer here. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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