2017 Fusion SE Stuck - SYSTEM LOCK - Need HELP!

[cruisin97]

?

Hi All, Need help badly! Car is stuck and cannot lock!

 

Car was fine this morning, until got out and returned a couple of minutes later. Door handle didn't work, so entered code and gained entry, then car wouldn't start. Sync showed a red message about system lock. Then nothing worked, and I mean NOTHING. key fob, keyless entry.

 

So now car is stuck and unlocked. I am so bleeping angry.

 

Tried putting key in cup holder, disconnecting battery. Nothing.

 

Any way to rest this? Maybe with both keys?

 

Thanks in advance!!

 

 

 

[bbf2530]

1 hour ago, cruisin97 said:

?

Hi All, Need help badly! Car is stuck and cannot lock!

 

Car was fine this morning, until got out and returned a couple of minutes later. Door handle didn't work, so entered code and gained entry, then car wouldn't start. Sync showed a red message about system lock. Then nothing worked, and I mean NOTHING. key fob, keyless entry.

 

So now car is stuck and unlocked. I am so bleeping angry.

 

Tried putting key in cup holder, disconnecting battery. Nothing.

 

Any way to rest this? Maybe with both keys?

 

Thanks in advance!!

 

 

 

 

Hi cruisin. How old is the battery? Is it the original factory battery?

 

In order to eliminate the battery as the problem source, your first step would be to try properly jump starting your Fusion using another vehicle.

 

Let us know how you make out and good luck.

[cruisin97]

Battery is original, so about 4 1/2 years old. Can't remember if original owner bought car in May 2017 or car was built then.

 

When you say properly  jump start, would that be different than jump starting any other car?

 

Thanks!

 

[cruisin97]

Also, would battery just die with no warning like that? Just seems very odd that one minute car is fine and the next, it is completely hosed.

 

I will be going back there with tools and volt meter this morning to get a better idea. Especially nice since downpours have stopped.  

 

Dreading making that call to get towed to dealer.

 

Thanks!

[NCEcoBoost]

I have a 2017 SE, which I purchased in September '17.  I had to replace the battery last Christmas and was told that you can expect the original to last about 3 years.  Price will shock you - it's a fancy battery because of the start/stop.  I think it was $200-ish.  Prices are apt to be higher now because of the shortages.

[bbf2530]

3 hours ago, cruisin97 said:

Also, would battery just die with no warning like that? Just seems very odd that one minute car is fine and the next, it is completely hosed.

 

I will be going back there with tools and volt meter this morning to get a better idea. Especially nice since downpours have stopped.  

 

Dreading making that call to get towed to dealer.

 

Thanks!

 

Hi cruisin. Several things: First...Yes, a battery can simply seem to be fine one minute, then dead the next with no warning. I have even had it happen to me once while driving.

 

Next...Modern vehicle are very electronics/electrical and computer intensive, and 3-4 years is about what you can expect for a battery lifespan.

 

Next...read your Owners Manual on how to properly jump start your vehicle. If you do not have the hard copy, you can download the PDF version here: https://www.fleet.ford.com/parts-service/resources/owner-manuals/

 

Next...the battery in a modern vehicle needs to be professionally load tested. An old fashioned "volt meter" will not give a proper reading on the battery.

 

The place to start troubleshooting this problem would be to jump start your car. If it starts, the battery is the likely cause. Then if you wish, you can have the battery properly load tested. And in all honesty, if it is the original battery, replace it.

 

If it will not start with a jump, then at least you have (probably) eliminated the battery as a cause.

 

You can often find coupons for a free battery test (and for a new battery) on the Ford Owners website, and most Dealer websites.

 

You can also register your vehicle on the Ford Owners website: https://www.ford.com/support/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwJbbysmV9AIVY8qzCh1oWAk9EAAYASAAEgLmw_D_BwE&searchid=160581195|13270894275|&ef_id=EAIaIQobChMIwJbbysmV9AIVY8qzCh1oWAk9EAAYASAAEgLmw_D_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2519!3!267771591263!e!!g!!ford owners

 

Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Edited November 13, 2021 by bbf2530

[cruisin97]

Thanks for replies.

 

Put voltmeter on this morning and it was 0.2 volts. Tried to jump start, nothing.... Unplugged battery and it measured 6.5 volts.

 

There was a dealer less than 10 miles away, so went there and bought new battery.

 

Interesting thing happened when I connected it... I heard something running, like a fan, but not the cooling fan. Right before things died yesterday, I thought I heard that as well, and the person I was meeting yesterday confirmed. 

 

Started right up but I didn't shut the car off, or turn anything on until I got home.

 

Turns out the battery was original, date on it said 6/20/2016, which is when the car was built. Original owner purchased in 5/2017. Guess its time was up.

 

The thing I found most infuriating (ok 2 things) was that I couldn't lock the car, and there was absolutely no warning, message, etc.

 

Thanks again to everyone for advice.

 

 

 

[bbf2530]

3 hours ago, cruisin97 said:

Thanks for replies.

 

Put voltmeter on this morning and it was 0.2 volts. Tried to jump start, nothing.... Unplugged battery and it measured 6.5 volts.

 

There was a dealer less than 10 miles away, so went there and bought new battery.

 

Interesting thing happened when I connected it... I heard something running, like a fan, but not the cooling fan. Right before things died yesterday, I thought I heard that as well, and the person I was meeting yesterday confirmed. 

 

Started right up but I didn't shut the car off, or turn anything on until I got home.

 

Turns out the battery was original, date on it said 6/20/2016, which is when the car was built. Original owner purchased in 5/2017. Guess its time was up.

 

The thing I found most infuriating (ok 2 things) was that I couldn't lock the car, and there was absolutely no warning, message, etc.

 

Thanks again to everyone for advice.

 

 

 

 

Hi cruisin. Happy to hear the new battery seems to have cleared things up.

 

And again, just as an FYI: Although you may never have experienced it before, batteries do not always give a "warning", warning lights, messages etc, before they die. Sometimes they can start the car in the morning, and then be dead 10 minutes later when you try to start the car again after stopping for coffee.

 

And as I stated earlier, I have had a battery completely die...stalling the car immediately...while driving. Luckily, I was still in the gas station parking lot where I had just filled up. I literally had just started the car after filling up, drove 30 feet, the battery died and so did the car. A new battery solved the issue.

 

When I called my Lincoln Dealer at the time (my guess is ~1995) and told them what happened and that I needed a tow, first thing they said was "It's probably the battery". Like you, I had never heard of that and questioned the over-the-phone diagnosis, told them the car had just started up fine, no warning lights etc.etc. They simply said "Trust us, we will come with a new battery and if that does not work, we will tow it back". They came with a battery, replaced it and all was right with the world again.

 

Let's hope this solves your problem.

 

Keep us updated and good luck.

[drolds1]

18 hours ago, NCEcoBoost said:

I have a 2017 SE, which I purchased in September '17.  I had to replace the battery last Christmas and was told that you can expect the original to last about 3 years.  Price will shock you - it's a fancy battery because of the start/stop.  I think it was $200-ish.  Prices are apt to be higher now because of the shortages.

That's a little surprising.  Idle stop/start-equipped Fords come with an AGM battery.  They're supposed to have a longer life span than lead-acid batteries, but apparently not in your case.

Quote

AGM batteries have a longer lifespan than traditional flooded batteries. Moreover, not only do they serve for a more extended period when they perform the same tasks, but they also last longer when they are not in active use. This is because self-discharging is minimized in these batteries, unlike other types of batteries, which is a huge problem. This ensures that one does not have to keep charging them after an extended period of inactivity

 

[drolds1]

9 hours ago, cruisin97 said:

 

The thing I found most infuriating (ok 2 things) was that I couldn't lock the car, and there was absolutely no warning, message, etc.

 

Thanks again to everyone for advice.

 

 

 

You were needlessly infuriated.  You absolutely can lock the doors in the event of a loss of 12V power.  It pays to read your owners manual.  Under Doors and Locks:

 

Quote

 

If the central locking function does not
operate, lock the doors individually using
the key in the position shown. On the
left-hand side, turn the key clockwise to
lock. On the right-hand side, turn the key
counterclockwise to lock.

 

If you don't have an OM, bbf2530 has provided a link above.

[akirby]

5 hours ago, drolds1 said:

That's a little surprising.  Idle stop/start-equipped Fords come with an AGM battery.  They're supposed to have a longer life span than lead-acid batteries, but apparently not in your case.

 

I just replaced the AGM in my F150 - made it to 3.5 years,  I think the AGM just makes auto stop start batteries last the same as the regular ones (3-4 years) not longer,

[drolds1]

3 hours ago, akirby said:

I just replaced the AGM in my F150 - made it to 3.5 years,  I think the AGM just makes auto stop start batteries last the same as the regular ones (3-4 years) not longer,

I guess we can cross that selling point off the list, then.  I wonder if they last any longer in a non-stop/start vehicle.

[cruisin97]

Drolds,

 

I guess I was. I did look in the OM when this happened, but I must have missed it somehow. I checked today as I don't remember that picture. I was reading a few pages ahead of that, as I was originally thinking an intelligent key issue, as the one of those was needed a 3v battery a couple of weeks ago and I replaced it. Unrelated, and at the same time, car was dealer and something they did caused the other key to become unprogrammed.

 

It's been a very strange and eventful couple of weeks. Up until 2 weeks ago, the car has been fine for 2 years I have had it.

 

Thanks for the info!!

[cruisin97]

BBF2530, here is an update.

 

A few days after getting new battery, needed to handle some urgent family stuff out of town. So car sat for 3 weeks in unheated garage. Checked before I started it, 11.7 volts. Started right up and seems fine.

 

Seems I am back on track as drove around doing errands today with no issues.

 

Thanks again for the advice.