Need Help!!!

[JoeyCooksVA]

Hey I’m new here don’t know if I’m even in the right place but need some help finding out what’s wrong with my 2010 Fusion SEL 3.0L V6. 
So few months back my car throws a check engine light and the temperature gauge would fluctuate all the way to the top like it is over heating and I have no power to go any where. I would pull over cut the car off and cut it back on and it would drive fine for a little while and then the same thing. Took it to dealership and they replaced the cylinder head temp sensor and the O2 sensor. I took it home and had it for a day then BAM it does it again….check engine light comes on and temperature gauge goes up and I have no power.

I don’t want to keep going back to dealership to keep spending more and more money.

Has anyone had anything like this happen??? Thanks In advance

Edited September 13, 2022 by JoeyCooksVA

[Fuser]

 

Did the service manager mention any diagnostic code numbers?

If not, take it to a parts store and ask them to check for any codes that may have come up.

[Grampy]

1) Symptoms you describe do not sound anything like an O2 sensor, sounds more like the computer put it in "limp mode" due to thinking it was overheating.  
2) If the indicated engine temp still pegs high, AND you do not have a real overheating problem, I would look at the sensor that drives the gauge, how is the wiring, (top rear of the 3.0l engine) is it grounding out? It is possible, even though unlikely the new CHT (cylinder head temperature sensor) failed again the same way.  Can you reach and jiggle the wiring while some one watches the temperature gauge (with the key on)?  NOTE a review of the wiring diagram shows pin 1 of connector C107 (to the CHT) goes to the powertrain control module (the brain) pin 39, pin 2 of C107 goes to splice S181, common to all kinds of other engine sensors and also returns to teh powertrain control module.  If you cannot find bad wiring and the codes point to head temperature (CHT),  I would re-replace the CHT myself.
3) Either get a code reader, have an auto parts store read the codes or find a REAL non-dealership mechanic you can trust.. get the codes read and troubleshot properly and fix the actual problem.
4) Always request the old parts.  They are required by law to give them to you unless replaced under a (free) warranty covered repair.  Some things, like temperature sensors, I can test, plus I want to learn what failed and how if I can.

True story: Earlier this year my daughter in-law was driving her Equinox (with 80K miles), it started running rough and stalled, she could restart it but it was rough, with a check engine light. She took it to the dealership (where she bought it new), they charged her $130 to tell her it needed major internal engine work, costing $3000 or more.  She told me, We went and got it..

They seemed appalled we were not gonna pay >$3K to have them "fix it" and asked what are you gonna do with it, and if she was willing to trade it in as is. I told 'em  even though the symptoms don't point to it, if it needs internal timing work, I can handle it.
I read the codes, read bad exhaust valve timing, (a shop with integrity might charge as much as $60 to do this 5 minute job) I removed both the exhaust & Intake timing solenoids, cleaned 'em  even though @ a mere 80K miles w/ regular oil changes they were not dirty.  Put 5 volts to the exhaust solenoid (didn't move, should move fully with 5 volts).  Put 15 volts on it, and it freed up.. varied the voltage from 0 -5 and it operated properly throughout the applied voltage range, as did the intake solenoid (always worked). Re installed 'em.. The car runs great, ordered new exhaust and intake timing solenoids and replaced 'em just to be sure (about $40 each), it has been 10K miles since NO problems.. I attempted to emphasize my distrust of dealerships to her.