2010 I-4 oil change

[akirby]

I also appreciate the advice on tire pressures. I know this can be a topic of great discussion, and that as tire technology has changed over the years, so must the approach to safely maintaining them.

 

Never go below the recommended tire pressure - that could be dangerous and cause wear problems.

Never go up to or even close to the maximum pressure on the tire sidewall.

 

If the recommended pressure is 32 and the max on the tire is 44, you could easily run anywhere from 32 to 36 with no problems. It's personal preference as to ride quality and handling. Some will go as high as 38 or 40 for better handling but unless you're autocrossing it's not necessary.

 

Regardless of what you run, check tire wear frequently and adjust if necessary.

[deo1929]

Okay, I took my car to the local lube shop for an oil change today. I have the 2.5 I-4. They had to phone in for a filter number, and I commented that I read it was a filter cartridge... The guy on the phone mentioned it was a Penzoil part - and my car used the canister filter, not the cartridge. They also had a heck of a time checking the oil level. Between three of them, they must have pulled the dipstick 50 times! They also added oil 2 more times. At this point, I am not sure they know how much oil they put in the car. This was the first oil change for this car - so it had whatever Ford put on it (filter) and in it (oil). Should I be concerned about this? How do I follow up to make sure it was done correctly?

 

They also noted my tires were over-pressure. The sticker calls for 32 PSI and all four corners are at 35PSI. I know being under is a concern, and being over can be as well. What is the range for a safe tire pressure?

 

Dan

 

Definitely a spin-on filter. I saw it on the crate engine they put in my Fusion last March. No canister.

 

Tire pressures: Your choice. Factory is a CYA pressure. The maximum tire pressure on the sidewall of my tires says 44 PSI. I run mine at 35-37 and notice no change in ride. Handling is a little quicker and mileage is improved 1-2 MPG.

Edited April 23, 2010 by deo1929

[Snowball 2010]

Bought a 2010 Fusion SE with I-4 one week ago. I was wondering if anyone has tips on oil changes. I found the panel to remove for access to the oil filter, not sure what size and type wrench for oil drain plug. Not sure I can slide under the car as it sits so low to the ground. Anyone use ramps or maybe a jack rolled under front end to lift front end up slightly?

 

 

 

Hi manueljones, To be honest with you, I shopped around and I would not be bothered changing my oil myself. I don't know from what part of the country your from, I live in Montreal, Quebec. I called my dealer, asked how much for a Castrol Synthec oil change and they charge 120$. After calling a few places, the cheapest was Costco at 57$ all inclusive and tax in. Since I bought my 2010 SE a year ago, I let my car tell me when it's time and just drive in to Costco do a little shopping and when I'm done so is my car. ciao.

[Snowball 2010]

If you have the desire and the skill to change it yourself - do it. The dealer won't care and even if he does - who cares? It's your vehicle.

 

As for the oil life - you reset it manually. It's more or less just a time/mileage counter - it doesn't actually sample the oil.

 

Hi akirby,"I BEG TO DIFFER" It's very important to document all maintenance in a log or at the very least have your receipts in a shoe box and don't loose them. If they are cash receipts printed on heat sensitive paper, Make photo copies and staple the original to your copy and store it in a cool dry place. Reason being a cash receipt's printing will fade and disappear with heat. Now back to why you must keep a log. Although it is your car, if it's not fully paid for and you have financing with a bank or financial institution the car is technically theirs until it's paid off. Legally you must maintain it. If your car is under warranty and you do not maintain your car and prove that you do your warranty will by voided. Now, if your car is paid for and the warranty is over, you can do whatever you want, right? "WRONG" Your just inviting trouble......if ever there is a recall on your car and you have no proof of maintenance being kept, tough luck for you. Proof of maintenance is the first thing the manufacturer is going to require even before discussing anything. Believe me......I'm telling you this cuz I personally have gone through this very unpleasant experience with my Honda Odyssey. They extended their warranty on their trans and because I had not kept my receipt for my trans flush and I brought my van for service on my trans they flatly denied me. I had to pay 2000$ to get it fixed. So, like the saying goes " PAY ME NOW or PAY ME LATER" well I rather pay now by keeping a log and doing my maintenance when it's needed....not later.

Sorry for PREACHING but I do care for all of you. Ciao

[Rick]

Bought a 2010 Fusion SE with I-4 one week ago. I was wondering if anyone has tips on oil changes. I found the panel to remove for access to the oil filter, not sure what size and type wrench for oil drain plug. Not sure I can slide under the car as it sits so low to the ground. Anyone use ramps or maybe a jack rolled under front end to lift front end up slightly?

 

I just recently bought an 09 Fusion I-4. I found everything to be easy until I tried to remove the oil filter. I had no idea what size oil filter cap wrench to buy so I bought a set of oil filter pliers. It would not budge the oil filter cap. So I researched on line and found out that I needed a 76 mm oil filter cap wrench. I went to Advance Auto and bought on (part #W54063) for under $6.00. It worked like a charm. Well worth the money. Auto Zone also carries one (part # 25401) for under $6.00

 

To change the oil I needed the following:

Jack (floor jack works best if you have one)

10mm socket for the oil filter access cover

13mm wrench/socket for drain plug

6mm allen wrench to drain oil filter prior to removing

76mm oil filter cap wrench (3/8 ratchet, 6inch extension works best but a 3 inch will suffice)

drain pan (long rectangle works best, oil squirts out pretty far once drain plug is removed, and can also catch the draining oil from oil filter) recommend draining oil pan first.

6 pack of favorite beverage on ice ( drink one or more while oil is draining, share with a friend if one is helping)

[commishbob]

I just recently bought an 09 Fusion I-4. I found everything to be easy until I tried to remove the oil filter. I had no idea what size oil filter cap wrench to buy so I bought a set of oil filter pliers. It would not budge the oil filter cap. So I researched on line and found out that I needed a 76 mm oil filter cap wrench. I went to Advance Auto and bought on (part #W54063) for under $6.00. It worked like a charm. Well worth the money. Auto Zone also carries one (part # 25401) for under $6.00

 

To change the oil I needed the following:

Jack (floor jack works best if you have one)

10mm socket for the oil filter access cover

13mm wrench/socket for drain plug

6mm allen wrench to drain oil filter prior to removing

76mm oil filter cap wrench (3/8 ratchet, 6inch extension works best but a 3 inch will suffice)

drain pan (long rectangle works best, oil squirts out pretty far once drain plug is removed, and can also catch the draining oil from oil filter) recommend draining oil pan first.

6 pack of favorite beverage on ice ( drink one or more while oil is draining, share with a friend if one is helping)

 

 

I found that having a 21 year old son to get under the car is a handy accessory!

[SparcEE]

Anyone have the torque value range on the drain plug? Aluminum oil pans scare me...

 

Thanks,

SparcEE

[stevenh]

I dont know about anyone elses....but my 2010SE is listed as 5.3 quarts...and when I purchsed a motorcraft 5+ jug of synthetic blend....it was 5.28 gallons.

The tire pressure on my door panel is listed as 31 psi cold....as I dont drive on perfect roads anywhere.

..i would NEVER consider inflating over the listed psi.

(i dont like premature wear on the suspension components )

[inkie]

I have owned my Fusion for 5 months and I am ready to change the oil. I notice the drain plug does not contain a washer. I am used to Hondas that use crush washers and before I owned the Hondas I remember all my American cars had washers on the drain plugs. I notice in all the posts no one mentions the use of washers for the drain plug. So is it safe to assume the Fusion drain plug is washer free? Thanx

[akirby]

So is it safe to assume the Fusion drain plug is washer free? Thanx

 

Yes.

[inkie]

akirby, Thank you for the quick reply to my query. Inkie

[fordmaker1]

just did the first oil change at 3000 miles, added 5.28 quarts, took the oil to the top of the hatch marks on the dip stick. My owners manual says 5.3 quarts, thats what went in.

[dugateau]

I just bought a new Fusion 2010 and am starting all the planing that goes with a new car.

Oil change being one of the most important activities, i was trying to get my head around the hard decisions, synthetic, regular, additives, warranty, etc.

Had a Saturn SC2 1998 and even though I ran Castrol Syntec the motor died at 99mi (160km) ... so I am a bit unsure about synthetic oil.

Looked over the net and found Royal Purple and Amsoil ... not sure if it is snake oil or not but I may give it a try.

 

Anyone running 0W-20 Motor Oil (ASM) by Amsoil ?

 

I just sent a question to Ford to ask about warranty and recommendations when using this oil.

 

@ImBroke ... nice pictures ... I see you chose Amsoil XL 5W20 ... from what I saw over the net this oil is not in the same league as the AMS 0w20 one ... (http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/asm.aspx) ...

 

and thanks for the detailed procedures ...

 

Edit: ... i did browse the net a bit and seems that Amsoil, Royal Purple and other 100% synthetics are very similar products ... and looks a bit like religion. Now I need to enroll to a new belief ... one that does not picture Castrol Syntec as a kick a** product at the same time as not depleting my wallet more than it has to.

Edited August 31, 2010 by dugateau

[akirby]

I just bought a new Fusion 2010 and am starting all the planing that goes with a new car.

Oil change being one of the most important activities, i was trying to get my head around the hard decisions, synthetic, regular, additives, warranty, etc.

Had a Saturn SC2 1998 and even though I ran Castrol Syntec the motor died at 99mi (160km) ... so I am a bit unsure about synthetic oil.

Looked over the net and found Royal Purple and Amsoil ... not sure if it is snake oil or not but I may give it a try.

 

Anyone running 0W-20 Motor Oil (ASM) by Amsoil ?

 

I just sent a question to Ford to ask about warranty and recommendations when using this oil.

 

@ImBroke ... nice pictures ... I see you chose Amsoil XL 5W20 ... from what I saw over the net this oil is not in the same league as the AMS 0w20 one ... (http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/asm.aspx) ...

 

and thanks for the detailed procedures ...

 

Edit: ... i did browse the net a bit and seems that Amsoil, Royal Purple and other 100% synthetics are very similar products ... and looks a bit like religion. Now I need to enroll to a new belief ... one that does not picture Castrol Syntec as a kick a** product at the same time as not depleting my wallet more than it has to.

 

Stick with the Motorcraft 5W-20 factory oil - it's a synthetic blend already. Change it per the OM recommendations. It works great. Anything beyond that is just overkill and wasted money.

[dugateau]

thanks.

[ImBroke]

 

@ImBroke ... nice pictures ... I see you chose Amsoil XL 5W20 ... from what I saw over the net this oil is not in the same league as the AMS 0w20 one ... (http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/asm.aspx) ...

 

and thanks for the detailed procedures ...

 

 

You're welcome. Always nice to help someone out. I'm an Amsoil dealer, so I use the products I sell, unlike Hollywood. ( I'm only guessing here)

[mettech]

Stick with the Motorcraft 5W-20 factory oil - it's a synthetic blend already. Change it per the OM recommendations. It works great. Anything beyond that is just overkill and wasted money.

 

I run MC 5w-20 until the warranty expires. It is an excellent oil for the money.

 

I use ASM 0W-20 in my '03 Sable and change it once/year and have gone 28K miles on it with no makeup oil.

 

I also use Amsoil in my Suzuki C90.

 

I use http://www.schaefferoil.com/ 9000 5W-40 in my '05 F-350 PSD.

 

Go to http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php and for UOA. and view empirical data.

 

There is a difference in motor oil.

[akirby]

There is a difference in motor oil.

 

Of course there is. But that doesn't mean that it makes a difference for the average driver.

[stevenh]

I just changed my oil for the second time at 7350 miles. The first time i used the MC blend and the MC filter at 2800 miles. Its not a bad deal and a probably a decent oil.

This time around I switched to Mobil 1 ,which I have been using for close to 30 years in every personaly owned vehicle I have owned (except my boat which requires a straight weight oil) .. I am confidant of mobile 1 as I have had two occasions to open the engines up and examine the cylinder walls on egines with greater than 150k miles..

Currently ,I have my own 95 tbird 4.6 with one head off after 156,000 miles (thermostat failure) On all four cylinders I am able to see

100 percent of the original hash marks in the cylinder wear. The valve guides have minimum vear. The cam and rollers have negligable wear . In a few weeks I will be getting around to taking the other head . I will then take pictures for referance.

 

For someone to say its a waste of money...well that maybe true...but if I go to buy a vehicle,if the owner can show me receipts for what

oil he put in it when he purchased ,and if he/she shows me mobile 1 ,its going to influence me..especially if its coming from an area

with a winter season !!!

[neilx]

At my dealer, an oil change is $19.95, and it's $29.95 for an oil change, tire rotation, and fluid refill. I can't afford to spend the time to do it myself, to only save $2-$3. Also by having your Ford dealer do it, it will be reported to Carfax, Ford, and other sources that will keep your resell value up. Everybody now checks with Ford and Carfax before they buy or trade for a preowned Ford, to see if the service records were reported. I've been a Ford sales manager for 10 years, and see 30-40 people a day that will check on a vehicle this way. Besides, the U.S. government will fine you if you don't dispose of the old oil properly, and Ford can deny warranty work.

[xmech2k]

At my dealer, an oil change is $19.95, and it's $29.95 for an oil change, tire rotation, and fluid refill. I can't afford to spend the time to do it myself, to only save $2-$3. Also by having your Ford dealer do it, it will be reported to Carfax, Ford, and other sources that will keep your resell value up. Everybody now checks with Ford and Carfax before they buy or trade for a preowned Ford, to see if the service records were reported. I've been a Ford sales manager for 10 years, and see 30-40 people a day that will check on a vehicle this way. Besides, the U.S. government will fine you if you don't dispose of the old oil properly, and Ford can deny warranty work.

 

While I do go and pay my $29.95 at the appropriate intervals to cover myself for the warranty coverage, I find the service to be quite laughable.It says tire rotation, but it should say 'check to see if tire rotation is required', as they haven't actually rotated them yet. (OK perhaps it's not needed yet.) Also, the fact that they never fill the washer fluid leaves me wondering if they've checked any fluids. You can usually tell they put oil in due to the oil they spilled over the top of the engine and apparently don't have a rag to wipe it up with... Maybe I expect too much as an aircraft mechanic. In the aviation industry, when a plane comes in for a certain service, it gets it, and we clean up the mess.

 

And it costs nothing to dispose of your oil and filters any more. When I do my own oil changes, I take the old oil and filters back to the auto parts store where they accept it for free, and while I'm there I pick up the oil and filter for the next change.

 

True, time is a factor, and it pays to find the oil on sale, as it can actually become more expensive doing it yourself. It's just one of those things where I feel if I want it done right, I'd rather do it myself. When the warranty is expired, the service department gets fired.

[Montfort]

At 1500 miles I decided to change the oil and filter on our 2011 SE I4 6 speed. Did a pretty aggressive but not abusive break in and was pleased to see the oil level down about halfway on the dipstick. Normally would do this basic maintenance myself but with the weather being lousy thought I'd get a price from the dealer. $90.00 tax in! Ok, so back to plan A. However, figured I'd be good for this first change and go with Motorcraft from the dealer. Afraid not. They didn't have any available in 1 liter or 4 liter containers, only in bulk. Picked up some GTX 5W20 along with a NAPA Gold filter. Job done.

Nothing but good things to say so far about our first Ford ever.

[xmech2k]

$90 oil change? Is that in Canadian dollars? Didn't know the exchange rate difference was that huge! ;-)

[Montfort]

$90 oil change? Is that in Canadian dollars? Didn't know the exchange rate difference was that huge! ;-)

 

Correct! $90.00 © which is totally rediculous. Another Ford dealer was reasonable at $50.00 tax in. Still decided to do it myself and allow for a longer drain period.

And you're right, the exchange rate isn't that different at present. It's pretty much at par.

Edited January 3, 2011 by Montfort

[2011se25]

I have no idea what you mean regarding the 1" socket wrench. Please enlighten us. Most new cars use metric fasteners...

 

Here is what you need for changing oil in a new 2010 Fusion 2.5L I-4.

I suggest ramps and a wheel chock. Use that hand brake and leave it in gear if manual trans.

Nice plastic ramps can be bought for cheap.

13mm socket - for drain plug

7mm socket on a 1/4" drive - for the oil plug access panel and filter access panel. About 5 of these little bolts total.

10mm socket - one bolt on the oil filter access plus a couple of the 7mm (or one I can't remember).

The other things you will need is 5 QUARTS of 5W-20 oil (you can get Motorcraft synthetic blend in a 5 qt jug).

The Motorcraft filter is a FL-910.

The oil and filter ran me $17 and change at WalMart.

 

The access panels are clearly marked. Ford engineers did a fabulous job using these access points instead of having to remove the entire cover (pay attention Audi!!). Once the bolts are removed pivot the access panel out of the way. No need to force it. They also designed a filter that hangs straight down so it doesn't drip on the cover or any part of the frame or motor for a later "frame drip." (pay attention Audi!!). The drain plug is easily accessible.

Make sure your drain pan is positioned far enough rearward, because once the plug is removed the oil shoots toward the back of the vehicle. 5W-20 flows like water.

 

Unscrew the filter (until oil runs out) with the pan under it. Let it drain then remove it the rest of the way.

Don't forget to oil the rubber gasket on the new filter for future removal. Screw new filter on until the gasket contacts the surface, tighten about one full turn, no more.

 

The oil change is so easy I almost enjoyed doing it... almost. Even if you've never changed oil before you will be able to do this.

 

I found the access doors to be the biggest pain of the whole thing. Otherwise all went well and I was prepared with the right sockets. The dealer had oil for less than it would cost at Canadian Tire, and the filter was competitively priced too, and made in the developed world to boot!