My AC blows scorching hot air

[Leandra]

?

[povertymobile]

[MycoMansell]

 I have had a similar problem where my 2010 Ford Fusion S blows hot air, and firestone diagnosed me with two issues: A/C EVACUATE AND RECHARGE R134A W/ DYE and REMOVE AND REPLACE AC CONTROL PANEL. 

 

To troubleshoot, look for some common problems that could be going on with your cars A/C system:

• Ensure there is an adequate amount of refrigerant in the system. Low refrigerant levels can result in poor cooling performance. 
• Look for visible signs of refrigerant leaks. Oil stains around fittings, connections, or the compressor can indicate a leak. You can use an ultraviolet dye to trace leaks.
• Check the AC compressor for physical damage or abnormal noises. A malfunctioning compressor can lead to poor cooling performance.
• Check the condition and tension of the drive belt(s) connected to the AC compressor. Worn or loose belts can affect the compressor's performance.
• Inspect the condenser for debris such as leaves, bugs, or dirt. A clogged condenser can reduce the efficiency of the AC system.
• Ensure that the condenser fan is working correctly. A malfunctioning fan can lead to inadequate heat dissipation from the condenser.
• A clogged cabin air filter can reduce the airflow, impacting the cooling efficiency. Replace the filter if necessary.
• Check the AC controls, including the temperature and fan speed settings, to ensure they are functioning correctly. Faulty controls may give the impression of an AC problem.
• Inspect electrical connections, fuses, and relays related to the AC system. Electrical issues can lead to intermittent cooling or complete failure.
• Use AC gauges to measure high and low side pressures. Abnormal pressure readings can indicate issues such as a refrigerant leak, a faulty compressor, or a restriction in the system.

 

You should always refer to your car owner's manual or under your hood to see what kind of car refrigerant and how much it needs (labeled Charge level). Working on the A/C can be complex and dangerous if you don't know exactly what you're doing since it's a pressurized system. See if you can get it diagnosed somewhere prior to working on it for cheap. Getting work done at shops may be a total scam but their diagnoses I believe can be valuable sometimes.

 

In my case, I attempted to put 18 oz of R134a Freon into my lines, but it was giving me a reading of red before I even could put any in the lines (indicating a problem with the compressor per the bottle). I paid somebody local with a pressure system (or you can rent one from Autozone) and he sucked all of the air and moisture from my high and low pressure lines under the hood to create a system under vacuum for me. Leaving air or moisture in the lines can cause them to freeze inside the system creating ice crystals which can cause damage. Once there is a vacuum, I was able to put the whole can of freon in my car. I could tell it made a difference since my compressor begun spinning again indicating that it was compressing what I had just put in.

 

Given I needed 22 oz and I only put 18 oz in to "charge" it, after a while it started to blow cold if you didn't blow it max immediately, and if you hit the option that lets the same air get recycled through the system (positive feedback loop to cool your air). I believe the AC head control panel part pertained to the AC control part of the troubleshooting. Though I am sure if I wanted a factory new A/C system and wanted a tundra in my car, I would replace that $200 some computer module but for a cheap fix I would consider that if it works. Also, this is not a how to guide or step by step post, but hopefully this points you in the right direction.

 

Best of luck Leandra