notmuchwbu Posted August 12, 2023 Share Posted August 12, 2023 2016 Ford Fusion SE w/ 48000 miles on the clock. Too long; didn't read: Rear parking brakes stick and wont disengage unless the car sits not running for a few minutes before trying to disengage again. Traction control deactivated lights are permanently on and the ABS and "Check brake systems" lights come on after a short time driving. Old and crusty battery was replaced very recently d/t weird voltage codes and poor battery health to no avail. AutoZone codes are "Electric Park Brake Enable - Deactivated" (B1111-53), and "Ignition Switch - Signal Invalid" (U300A-29). AutoZone report mentioned replacing the electronic parking brake actuator(s). No idea what the ignition switch code is for. Honestly just hoping it's a wiring issue I can fix. One day out of nowhere, I get into my car and turn it on to see the traction control light and traction control off lights on my dash, which I had never deactivated before. After driving for 3 minutes I'm hit with an ABS warning and a "Check brake systems" warning. I pulled over and checked my brake fluid level, my engine's fuse box, my brake pads & calipers (by eye), and nothing was apparently wrong. My brakes also work the same as before, and the master cylinder compresses fine in park. I took it to AutoZone for a free scan, and it came back with weird voltage codes (U3003-16, U3003-17), "Electric Park Brake Enable - Deactivated" (B1111-53), and "Ignition Switch - Signal Invalid" (U300A-29). I switched out my (already really old battery), which resolved the voltage codes, but didn't fix the other two. The report mentioned replacing the electronic parking brake actuator(s). Turns out, I can engage the parking brakes using the switch normally, but I can't immediately disengage them. I found this out when trying to troubleshoot. They'll only release if I turn off the car and wait a couple minutes before turning it back on and pushing down the switch. Sidenote: I had some animal get into my front bumper and chew a few wires leading to my horn and front hood latch sensor. I patched them myself (because I didn't feel like spending hundreds on a harness), and I really don't think any of the connections are shorting with each other, nor do they have any obvious involvement with the parking/braking systems. Who knows if this is relevant. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WKelley Posted August 13, 2023 Share Posted August 13, 2023 Look for more chewed wires, that would be my first go to. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notmuchwbu Posted August 14, 2023 Author Share Posted August 14, 2023 The time between the two problems occurring is about 3 weeks 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoheen Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 I have a 2016 MKZ same platform and I am also going through the same problems I have even used forscan to help and still hunting down the problem without throwing money at parts 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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