jrseykid686 Posted March 28, 2010 Share Posted March 28, 2010 I have a 2010 Fusion AWD SEL 3.0L V6. 8800 miles on it I have already had one brake job done, reprogrammed transmission. Yesterday to my very unhappy surprise i smelled a very familiar scent of engine oil. I backed the car out to find a very large puddle of oil under the car. I jacked up the car and found the oil to be coming from somewhere behind the engine near the front drive shaft (a little behind). The oil is leaking at a good rate at times, not sure if it is leaking more under pressure or not. Sometimes i have a large puddle, sometimes only a drip. The dipstick is getting close to being dry after one day of leaking. Has anybody had this problem?? It is going back to the dealer tomorrow for the oil leak, needs a 3rd set of brakes (rotors keep warping) and to repaint the rear passenger door (factory paint issue). I love driving this car, but am begging to regret getting rid of my high mileage old truck which never gave me any problems..... 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ctrcbob Posted March 29, 2010 Share Posted March 29, 2010 I have a 2010 Fusion AWD SEL 3.0L V6. 8800 miles on it I have already had one brake job done, reprogrammed transmission. Yesterday to my very unhappy surprise i smelled a very familiar scent of engine oil. I backed the car out to find a very large puddle of oil under the car. I jacked up the car and found the oil to be coming from somewhere behind the engine near the front drive shaft (a little behind). The oil is leaking at a good rate at times, not sure if it is leaking more under pressure or not. Sometimes i have a large puddle, sometimes only a drip. The dipstick is getting close to being dry after one day of leaking. Has anybody had this problem?? It is going back to the dealer tomorrow for the oil leak, needs a 3rd set of brakes (rotors keep warping) and to repaint the rear passenger door (factory paint issue). I love driving this car, but am begging to regret getting rid of my high mileage old truck which never gave me any problems..... 1. Oil leak. Most likely from the Power Transfer Unit. They Leak. Mine leaks. Dealers keep "fixing it" but still leaks. When it runs out of oil, so be it. Time to trade. (I think there is a TSB out on it, but I now ignore it). 2. Warped Rotors. Many people will tell you that they warp because you go through puddles of water and the rotors get wet when hot. Thats not what I believe. What really happens is that when you come to a fast (hard) stop, the rotors get hot. Then while you are still at a stop, you hold your brake on. The heat from the brake pads, "soak" into the rotors, causing that area of the rotor to get much hotter than the other areas of the rotor. Here is what I do. When I come to a fast stop, I either allow the car to creep forward just a bit, slowly, so the heat soak gets to the whole rotor, OR, I just put the car in neutral, and take my foot off the brake so there is no heat soak. 3. Re-program transmission. I had a problem with my transmission not shifting correctly. Took it to my L/M Dealer and their "Transmission Man" connected a laptop to the car, let the car run for an hour while the laptop loaded new information into the car. When I drove away, I could see that the "update" was not worth a darn. A few months later, I was talking with the Service Manager of my local Ford Dealer, and mentioned to him that I was having this problem. Asked if he could do something for me. He connected a laptop to the car and sat in the car with the laptop in his lap. Then; tap tap tap (in the laptop - taking instructions from laptop), switch the key on; tap tap tap, switch the key off. tap tap tap, switch the key on. tap tap tap, start car. tap tap tap, switch key off Says, ok, all fixed. AND HE WAS RIGHT. The transmission was now working correctly. Took all of five minutes. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrseykid686 Posted April 1, 2010 Author Share Posted April 1, 2010 Ok, turns out it was Gear Oil leaking all over. My PTU needs to be replaced...what exactly does that do? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ctrcbob Posted April 4, 2010 Share Posted April 4, 2010 Ok, turns out it was Gear Oil leaking all over. My PTU needs to be replaced...what exactly does that do? PTU sends power to the rear wheels in addition to the front wheels. PTU sits forward of the driveshaft in centerline of car. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wptski Posted April 5, 2010 Share Posted April 5, 2010 PTU sends power to the rear wheels in addition to the front wheels. PTU sits forward of the driveshaft in centerline of car. The PTU only sends power to the rear wheels. A FWD doesn't have a PTU, only a 4WD and if you want to use the loose term of AWD have one. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dee123 Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 Ford warranty requires machining rotors till they become too thin to do so anymore. If that is what there doing, they will keep warping. Ask for new ones. I'm a tech and I hate machining rotors, except for large trucks. (too expensive) Trans reprogramming isn't a big deal. The new PTU should be okay after installed, if diagnosed properly. Good luck. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdubes Posted August 21, 2010 Share Posted August 21, 2010 2. Warped Rotors. Many people will tell you that they warp because you go through puddles of water and the rotors get wet when hot. Thats not what I believe. What really happens is that when you come to a fast (hard) stop, the rotors get hot. Then while you are still at a stop, you hold your brake on. The heat from the brake pads, "soak" into the rotors, causing that area of the rotor to get much hotter than the other areas of the rotor. Here is what I do. When I come to a fast stop, I either allow the car to creep forward just a bit, slowly, so the heat soak gets to the whole rotor, OR, I just put the car in neutral, and take my foot off the brake so there is no heat soak. I'm not sure how much mechanical experience you have, but I do not see the logic behind this theory due to the fact that the pad never stops touching the rotor. Even when your off the brakes, the pads are basically touching the rotor lightly and heat is still transfered. I believe it is simply due to too much heat - however it happens. It is a combination of the metal quality and the temperature. Cheap rotors warp easier. Rapid cooling will also warp metal so the rain water can cause problems too. Happens on many cars... 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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