12V Hardwire.

[Kaleb]

Hello, I'm wanting to add some blue lights above the pedals at the feet of my 2010 SE Fusion. The lights I'm looking at are 12V hardwire. Can somebody give me an idea of how to wire those up? I've heard you can go into the fuse box, but then some have said to wire it straight to the battery and I've been told to cut into the column and patch in there. Basically I want them always on when the car is on, and then I'm going to wire up a flip switch to turn them off if I want. So can somebody give me a step by step on how to do this.

 

Thanks

[Kaleb]

Bumpity Bump? Anyone?

[akirby]

Bumpity Bump? Anyone?

 

Get a fuse adapter that replaces a fuse and gives you a hot wire. Find a fuse that's on only when the ignition is on and wire it up.

[drolds1]

Get a fuse adapter that replaces a fuse and gives you a hot wire. Find a fuse that's on only when the ignition is on and wire it up.

 

Good advice. DO NOT hack into your steering column wiring. You have a brand new car. You could end up with warranty issues.

 

If your planned mod draws 10 amps or less, an Add-A-Circuit adapter is your best solution. Any well-stocked auto parts store should carry it. No cutting, splicing, etc. Easily removed should you want to return to stock.

[akirby]

Good advice. DO NOT hack into your steering column wiring. You have a brand new car. You could end up with warranty issues.

 

If your planned mod draws 10 amps or less, an Add-A-Circuit adapter is your best solution. Any well-stocked auto parts store should carry it. No cutting, splicing, etc. Easily removed should you want to return to stock.

 

That's the one. I knew some retired person would have time to look it up for you. :hysterical2:

[Kaleb]

Sweet! Thanks guys. One more question though. That adapter only has 1 lead out. Where does the other wire on the lights go? I've heard you ground it to the metal of the car?

Edited July 7, 2010 by Kaleb

[akirby]

Sweet! Thanks guys. One more question though. That adapter only has 1 lead out. Where does the other wire on the lights go? I've heard you ground it to the metal of the car?

 

Yes, the ground wire goes to a good metal piece under the dash (without paint).

[Kaleb]

Alright, Thanks

[drolds1]

That's the one. I knew some retired person would have time to look it up for you. :hysterical2:

 

Oh, face it. You're jealous.

[akirby]

Oh, face it. You're jealous.

 

Hell yeah! I'm ready to go now but I've got at least 10 more years. I don't have one of those cushy gummint jobs you know........

[drolds1]

Hell yeah! I'm ready to go now but I've got at least 10 more years. I don't have one of those cushy gummint jobs you know........

 

You have my full sympathy. :P

[Kaleb]

Ok, so I'm having some issues. I bought the correct Add-a-circuit and got it plugged into the lane merger warning and Back up sensor fuse, number 30 something. Nothing works. I got 10 amp fuses plugged in both slots in the add-a-circuit and neither the lights, nor the back up sensors work anymore. I really have no idea what the problem is. Can somebody give me a very clear step by step on how to use these things. I think its my ground. I tested the lights with a 9V battery and they worked, but only when I plugged the ground wire into the negative slot on the batter. So I literally taped the ground wire to the chassis under the car and still nothing. Please help.

Edited July 30, 2010 by Kaleb

[akirby]

Ok, so I'm having some issues. I bought the correct Add-a-circuit and got it plugged into the lane merger warning and Back up sensor fuse, number 30 something. Nothing works. I got 10 amp fuses plugged in both slots in the add-a-circuit and neither the lights, nor the back up sensors work anymore. I really have no idea what the problem is. Can somebody give me a very clear step by step on how to use these things. I think its my ground. I tested the lights with a 9V battery and they worked, but only when I plugged the ground wire into the negative slot on the batter. So I literally taped the ground wire to the chassis under the car and still nothing. Please help.

 

First make sure the fuses didn't blow and that they're seated all the way. Were you doing the test with the ignition on? That circuit may only be hot when the ignition is on so if it wasn't then it won't get power. Other than that it sounds exactly like a bad ground. You have to attach the ground wire to bare metal that's in contact with the metal chassis. Get a longer wire and run it back to the negative battery terminal if necessary for testing. If that works then you know the hot wire and fuses and switch are working. Then you just need to find a suitable ground.

[Kaleb]

Thanks for your help but I went to bed, and figured it out with a fresh head this morning. I guess you can't just tape it to any spot on the chassis, I found a screw under the dash quite a ways up that had a bunch of wires attached to it. So I guess that it was a grounding screw of some sort and I used an eyelet to attach my ground wire, and my add-a-circuit in slot 35 (Back up sensors, lane merger warning, ect.) so it only comes on in ACC or ignition and it works just fine. Thanks.

I'll try to post some pictures when I finish.

Edited July 30, 2010 by Kaleb

[akirby]

Thanks for your help but I went to bed, and figured it out with a fresh head this morning. I guess you can't just tape it to any spot on the chassis, I found a screw under the dash quite a ways up that had a bunch of wires attached to it. So I guess that it was a grounding screw of some sort and I used an eyelet to attach my ground wire, and my add-a-circuit in slot 35 (Back up sensors, lane merger warning, ect.) so it only comes on in ACC or ignition and it works just fine. Thanks.

I'll try to post some pictures when I finish.

 

I forgot to mention that electricity won't transfer through paint, so you need bare metal. The grounding screw goes through the paint into the unpainted metal.

[Kaleb]

here is the control box. A switch and project box from radio shack with everything wired inside. Since the dash lights are blue I went with a blue light up switch and blue lights. The sticks aren't stuck up yet, I'm waiting until it gets dark so I know what angle they are at. I've cleaned the wires up since this picture. They go from the box, into the groove under the center unit, one goes to the drivers lights and the other stick goes through the center unit and under the glovebox.

 

Edited July 30, 2010 by Kaleb

[Transam77]

Get a fuse adapter that replaces a fuse and gives you a hot wire. Find a fuse that's on only when the ignition is on and wire it up.

Some notes of what I have found so far that might be of some help. (2010 Fusion)

 

First of all, most of the fuses appear to be always live (12V) and the device switched on/off by a signal through the ground side.

Wanted to use a fuse that was not too important should something go wrong .

Tried using the subwoofer amp fuse with a "add a circuit" fuse adapter but it was always live, not switched on/off with ignition as you would expect.

 

Note the "add a circuit" device was too fat to fit in place of the fuse, had to file it down to fit.

Then tried using a "spare" position that actually did have a fuse in it but it was also alway on so decided to go with that for now and at least get rid of cig lighter plug.

But when I tested all, my Sirius radio said no signal.

Removed the subwoofer fuse and pushed back in hard and it worked (so it does more than power subwoofer).

That is not to say there is not a switched fuse position but would like to know which one before pulling and testing each fuse.

(As most spots under dash appear to be plastic, to find a good ground, I used an ohm meter lead from what I suspected was a good ground stud (and not isolated with plastic or whatever) and to various other what looked like ground points and got continuity which told me the ground stud was likely a good ground. I add this as not having a proper ground will of course be a problem)

[Transam77]

Some notes of what I have found so far that might be of some help. (2010 Fusion)

 

First of all, most of the fuses appear to be always live (12V) and the device switched on/off by a signal through the ground side.

Wanted to use a fuse that was not too important should something go wrong .

Tried using the subwoofer amp fuse with a "add a circuit" fuse adapter but it was always live, not switched on/off with ignition as you would expect.

 

Note the "add a circuit" device was too fat to fit in place of the fuse, had to file it down to fit.

Then tried using a "spare" position that actually did have a fuse in it but it was also alway on so decided to go with that for now and at least get rid of cig lighter plug.

But when I tested all, my Sirius radio said no signal.

Removed the subwoofer fuse and pushed back in hard and it worked (so it does more than power subwoofer).

That is not to say there is not a switched fuse position but would like to know which one before pulling and testing each fuse.

(As most spots under dash appear to be plastic, to find a good ground, I used an ohm meter lead from what I suspected was a good ground stud (and not isolated with plastic or whatever) and to various other what looked like ground points and got continuity which told me the ground stud was likely a good ground. I add this as not having a proper ground will of course be a problem)

Forgot to add something very important. The 12V plug (to cigarette lighter socket as once was known) that came with your device probably converts 12V to 5V or something like that. Wiring directly to another 12V source could cook the device or it simply not work as it may have over voltage protection. You could hang a separate 12V socket under the dash and plug the power adapter that came with the device into it.