slowdaddy Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 It means get it to a dealer. There's nothing there that you can fix anyway. And you are the moderator? Think you need some help! 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 And you are the moderator? Think you need some help! Why? The poster wanted to know what they should do about it. That's not a part that the owner can service themselves so the only real recourse at that point was to take it to the dealer. I would consider that helpful information. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drolds1 Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 And you are the moderator? Think you need some help! You join a forum and your first post is to insult a moderator? Did you consult Emily Post for that. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danobegood Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 Why? The poster wanted to know what they should do about it. That's not a part that the owner can service themselves so the only real recourse at that point was to take it to the dealer. I would consider that helpful information. gotta disagree here. I'd suspect the majority of folks here would not go to the dealer as a first stop. If you're here you likely DON'T want to go to the dealer. Folks who would are likely already there. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christopher Fahnestock Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 I ran into the same problem. Tried using the tube supplied to clear any debris at filler door, no help. Decided to look at where solenoid was located to see how big a deal it would be to replace and noticed that the air hose (4" approx. dia.) from air cleaner to where solenoid is had the band clamp loose by at least 1 1/2". When I had my car serviced at the dealer they must have loosened and removed the hose to check the air filter. Any way tightened the clamp (it is not possible to vibrate loose) and voila the "check fuel fill inlet" warning message went away. I also must point out that when I had my dealer last service the vehicle they forgot to tighten the new oil filter they installed and I ended up with oil all over the bottom of the engine and my garage floor! I think I will take care of my own service issues from now on. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 gotta disagree here. I'd suspect the majority of folks here would not go to the dealer as a first stop. If you're here you likely DON'T want to go to the dealer. Folks who would are likely already there. I disagree. People want to know if it's something they can fix and how to do it, but if it's something that isn't easily fixed by the owner then taking it to the dealer or a mechanic is the next logical step for most people. If someone still wants help with a DIY project they can certainly ask for it but 9 out of 10 folks wouldn't try a DIY fix for something like that. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 I ran into the same problem. Tried using the tube supplied to clear any debris at filler door, no help. Decided to look at where solenoid was located to see how big a deal it would be to replace and noticed that the air hose (4" approx. dia.) from air cleaner to where solenoid is had the band clamp loose by at least 1 1/2". When I had my car serviced at the dealer they must have loosened and removed the hose to check the air filter. Any way tightened the clamp (it is not possible to vibrate loose) and voila the "check fuel fill inlet" warning message went away. I also must point out that when I had my dealer last service the vehicle they forgot to tighten the new oil filter they installed and I ended up with oil all over the bottom of the engine and my garage floor! I think I will take care of my own service issues from now on. That makes no sense logically, although I'm not doubting your experience. Just can't explain it. The air inlet should have nothing to do with the fuel inlet. Very strange. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danobegood Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 I disagree. People want to know if it's something they can fix and how to do it, but if it's something that isn't easily fixed by the owner then taking it to the dealer or a mechanic is the next logical step for most people. If someone still wants help with a DIY project they can certainly ask for it but 9 out of 10 folks wouldn't try a DIY fix for something like that. a fuel filler neck? I'd advise a chain smoker to not do the job, but otherwise I guess I'm your one of ten. Youtube it folks. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raymond R. Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 (edited) Well I said I would update if this happens again, and it did. Got the "Check Fuel Fill Inlet" message a second time, but it went away on its own during the same driving trip to work. However, a few days after that my check engine light came on and stayed on. OBD Sensor pulled error code P0455 (Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected). There is a thread on this forum regarding this error code, and what has worked for different people. I replaced the Purge Control Valve, Motorcraft Part CX-2349. It was $54 +tax at my local ford dealer. My mechanic popped it in free of charge as I did not have the tools at home to replace it myself. Took them five minutes, and I have had no issues since. Hope this helps anyone who may have this issue in the future. Edited May 30, 2014 by Raymond R. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danobegood Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 FWIW, I've noticed that the check fuel fill inlet indicator commes on after driving 70+ Mph for periods of time longer than like 20 minutes. I suspect there's an issue somewhere (control valve, purge, etc.) but I also notice that a couple of drive cycles on city roads turns it off. This behavior is reproducable. to pass inspection I cleared the code, drove only backroads for a week or so and then got my sticker. Hope this helps some folks to get their inspection sticker as well. Dan 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoblaz Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 Anyone have the issue of not being able to insert gas pump nozzle to put gas in ? 2012 Fusion SE 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hermans Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 I did once in my 2010. I wasn't paying attention and was trying to get a diesel nozzle in. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GhostRider Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 My wife keeps getting this message on her 2010 as well. What in the world is it?? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StanfordDropout Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 (edited) This is a quote from another member------>I have a 2012 Fusion SE and am getting the "Check Fuel Filler Inlet" message. I've been reading that 95% of the times, this message calls for replacing the Canister Purge Valve/Solenoid. (If you want to try, it's very easy. Just took a few minutes) Part - Motorcraft CX2349 (you can get these much cheaper online, but you can also get them from a Ford dealer for around $55) It's right in front of the motor. Two bolts, and two disconnections (hose/electrical wire). http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/bobover/2012-05-28_131840_workshop_content_purge.pdf I just did it outside in the parking lot in a few minutes. However, I'm still getting the message. How long should it take for the message to clear (assuming this was the problem)? I replaced it in the dealer parking lot.....got the message.......drove it back to work (about a 10 minute drive)........restarted it a few minutes later and still got the message. I've checked for debris in the gas cap area, and it seems to be clear. Me--->First post on this forum. Hope to be a regular. Long story short I bought a strut tower brace (anti sway bar kinda) and while trying to get it under the vapor hose I snapped a piece right at the middle before getting to the piece that looks like a small top hat (don't know what it's called...) I circled it on the picture. Right after this the message came on in the dash. If the light stays on after I replace the piece I will let you all know. The graphics in the above link might be helpful for you DIY's. I'll let you all know how the car rides after the brace install. Also, does anyone know what the small top hat under the circle is? I may have to replace that whole thing.... Later! Edited February 6, 2015 by StanfordDropout 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seneca Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 Thanks for your take on the problem. Yesterday I opened the fuel door, blew out the entire area inside the open door then passed the EastFill funnel in and (all the way) out of the filler pipe around 12 times then a shot of WD40 down around the flapper valve then passed the funnel in and out several more times, blew the area out with air nozzle again and that procedure very well may correct the check engine light situation. You must extinguish the check engine light by disconnecting the battery momentarily. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seneca Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 Regarding the ongoing problem with the (stupid) "EasyFill" fuel fill device. It is very possible that in most Ford products thru 2012(Ford severely modified this(stupid) device starting with 2013) the area just inside the fill door is contaminated. Blow the area out with compressed air then with the (stupid)EastFill funnel work it in and totally out of the flapper valve a dozen or so times then hit the flapper valve with a shot of WD40 and repeat the in and out procedure with the funnel. When you've done that blow the area out with air again to purge any remaining residue from the WD40. Close the filler door after making sure it's seal mates with the fill device area. Briefly disconnect the battery to shut down the check engine light and you're good to go. Most of the times when the above procedure is done the malady is cured. It only takes a few minutes and you'll save a bundle. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michiganman Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 It means get it to a dealer. There's nothing there that you can fix anyway. I'm new to this forum too. 2010 Ford Fusion SEL. Love it. Only had it a few months. Approximately 67K miles. Great condition. I recently moved to San Antonio area for work. The last leg of the trip the "Check Fuel Fill Inlet" came on. After a while the "Check Engine Light" came on. Mine is the cap free gas tank. Yippee! ! I've checked for possibly air leaks. One small trick you can try, I found it on YouTube is the unhook the (-) cable from the battery. Take a plastic funnel and shove it in and out several times. If you have an air compressor with a spray attachment spray into the funnel, around it. Some times dirt and particles might get in there. Then spray just a little bit of WD40 and take your funnel and do it again for several times. Spray with your compressed air all around to free up and dirt or particles that may have worked it's way in. Reconnect your (-) battery cable and it will go over. See if it comes back after several crank cycles. If it does, get to a dealer. They should know. I've already researched it to see if it's a defect. Nothing major reported. Not a big fan of a capless fuel tanks. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ABRAAR Posted December 10, 2019 Share Posted December 10, 2019 On 1/14/2012 at 1:58 AM, dffr1 said: WTF ? Why all the negativity, - someone only asked a maint question on a maint forum and gets flamed. These boards are setup to help distribute information. Usually a simple problem and simple fix - sometimes not the first or second part replaced. I have seen MANY errors and codes fixed by someone posting what fixed the problem, some cool people also post step by step instructions for a DIY'r. Hard to believe that someone would even post "There's nothing there that you can fix anyway" has to be one of these stupidest posts ever... Give it a shot yourself and save a few bucks.... good saying mate 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ABRAAR Posted December 10, 2019 Share Posted December 10, 2019 On 10/21/2013 at 6:16 PM, akirby said: They need to replace the filler neck. kindly provide the part number for ford fusion 2017 SE 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michiganman Posted July 23, 2022 Share Posted July 23, 2022 So this is an outdate posted for me b/c I no longer have my 2010 SEL. I have a 2010 SE as of late. But when I had my SEL took a funnel and put it in the fuel inlet multiple times, also spraying compressed air all over and if I recall I no longer had the problem. Hoping I don't have the issue with my current SE. My wife has a 2013 Escape with capless fuel inlet also. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.