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Starting problems


piddy_pete
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I just got a new AGM battery with 740 cca and wow does this thing start now. It's like I put a new starter in it. Starts in half the time it normally would start. I haven't had the new batt long enough to know if the problem is gone, only time will tell.

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  • 2 weeks later...

My car seems to be getting worse. It now doesn't start every 3-4 times you try and sometimes will not start 3 or 4 times in a row. The purge valve did nothing for my car. The local dealership is supposed to be bringing in an engineer to look at it. I wish they would have done this earlier. If the engineer can't figure anything out, I am seriously thinking about filing lemon law. I am afraid that one time when I am out it will not start period and then I'm stuck wherever.

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How often does it not start? Is it related to fuel level? Would you want to try a new purge valve?

Once every month or so. Fuel level is fine, doesn't matter if it's full, half or almost empty. It's really random. I'm guessing a new purge valve won't help because of nbmaddox's experence.

 

Nbmaddox, thanks for the update! Plese do let us know what happens.

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My car seems to be getting worse. It now doesn't start every 3-4 times you try and sometimes will not start 3 or 4 times in a row. The purge valve did nothing for my car. The local dealership is supposed to be bringing in an engineer to look at it. I wish they would have done this earlier. If the engineer can't figure anything out, I am seriously thinking about filing lemon law. I am afraid that one time when I am out it will not start period and then I'm stuck wherever.

 

Did you get this car new more than 18 months ago? If so, you're beyond the filing period under VA's lemon law:

 

 

If you think your vehicle is a lemon, contact the Office of Consumer Affairs before filing a claim under this Act. All claims must be filed within 18 months following the date you first received the vehicle.

 

 

Edited by drolds1
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  • 2 months later...

Reviving this thread since I just got up to date on it and this problem is still happening to me too. I'm still in powertrain warranty for a little bit (the I go into my extended with $50 deductible) so I am curious if the Ford engineers have got this figured out for anyone yet? Mine has been doing it since new (March 2011) and doesn't seem to be too much worse....kind of got used to it....but it is embarrassing when going out to lunch with co-workers or more important clients with a really nice sharp (seems new) car and it does that crap the first time I try to start it.....insert any Ford jokes from co-workers! Yeah it's not the end of the world but still super annoying...especially for an impatient person like me...I like to get in and get going right away :-)

 

Have a 2011 Sport and took it to dealer in summer 2011 to fix the problem but of course they couldn't replicate and didn't have any data of other customers having issues at that time. I moved to Colorado last year and doesn't seem like the elevation has effected it at all...still happens maybe 2-3 times a week. For me, it has always started on second try...FYI...

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Update: They still have not fixed my car. Over the summer, the dealership has replaced the evap. purge valve, pcm, and the fuel pump and it has done nothing but make it worse. I finally got the car to not start at the dealership with their lead mechanic (he has been working on fords for 25 years) standing right next to me when it went through the crank cycle and he told me he had no clue what was going on. Ford has more or less been throwing parts at my car. They have literally had my car more over the past three months than I have. I am now just beyond the bumper to bumper warranty (car still only has 21,000 miles) so the dealership said that since Ford extended my warranty, I have to $100 every time I bring the car back in even though it is a problem they have been trying to fix for 2 years now.

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Wow, perhaps it's a cam or crank sensor issue then? I wonder if the engine is getting spark or fuel or not when it does that (that should be the first thing they focus on). The problem would be having it all hooked up to check that stuff when it does it, but as you say it does it every 3-4 tries so that may be possible. Since you can get your car to do it somewhat reliably, I would think Ford would want to send one of their engineers out to look at it since it's a good data point. You'd need a 4 channel scope with the channels on the crank sensor, bank 1 cam sensor, bank 2 cam sensor, and #1 coil. Might as well check them all at the PCM to pick up any wire or signal noise problems. As long as the car will not start somewhat reliably, a well-trained technician should have this figured out in an hour or two.

 

I'd ask if they can send an engineer to look at it since the dealer techs don't know what to make of it.

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They are supposed to be sending an engineer back down to look at it again. The dealership told me almost two weeks ago they would call when they heard back from them and they have not called. Unfortunately, I am now back at school so it will make things interesting to say the least.

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Wow yeah that stinks! I hope it never gets that far with my car. I have thought about hooking up a fuel pressure gauge to the test port (if there is room to mount one on there) and when it does the no start, leave the key ON and pop the hood and see if it's a fuel problem....to at least narrow it down.

We appreciate the updates maddox...please keep us informed of any progress :-)

 

FYI...they shouldn't be charging you the deductible each time you take it in for the same problem...if at all...since the issue had started and was reported while under warranty. Even if they can get away with charging it to you the first time then you should only pay it once until the problem is resolved.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Update: Took the car back to the dealership on Monday so the FSE could look at it again today. They never got it to not start but they said that it did "stumble" once so they decided that it is either the ignition switch or something in the wiring harness. They have ordered a new switch and are going to put it in tomorrow. We will see if this fixes it or not. Fingers crossed.

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Update: Took the car back to the dealership on Monday so the FSE could look at it again today. They never got it to not start but they said that it did "stumble" once so they decided that it is either the ignition switch or something in the wiring harness. They have ordered a new switch and are going to put it in tomorrow. We will see if this fixes it or not. Fingers crossed.

 

Thanks for the update! Hope they figure it out. Another thing I've noticed now that you mention "stumbling", is that when my car does have it's fit, I noticed that lately the car shakes a lot while trying to start...not sure what that means really but thought I'd add that. It's not a normal shake you'd get while starting, more like a diesel truck starting type shake!

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Another thing I have noticed is that when the car fails to start the tach does not pick up the starter motor cranking the engine over like it does when the car starts normally.

 

Hmm, I'm going to have to keep an eye on that the next time it happens to me. That might be indicative of a crankshaft signal problem.

 

I don't think it's ignition switch because mine keeps cranking when you release the key until the 10 second cranking period timeouts (I don't hold the key in start). Unless somehow the switch causes a brief interruption in power that resets the PCM but still allows it to crank the engine.

 

It's a fairly big engine, so you will feel some shaking while you crank it, mainly due to normal second-order rocking motions. You are essentially feeling the pistons going up and down. That is perfectly normal, you just never notice if your engine starts right away all the time.

Edited by FusionDiffusion
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My GF 2010 Fusion V6 is starting to do this... but this is what happened before it started doing it. Saturday night she left the dome light on which drained the battery? So I cleaned the terminals jump started it ever since then it has been starting hard and did the above engine rolled over but didn't start, tried it 2nd time it started.. It's going to the dealers Wednesday morning but not holding out much hope after this thread... it only has 31000 on it.. haven't even had it a year yet... :rant2:

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Hmm, I'm going to have to keep an eye on that the next time it happens to me. That might be indicative of a crankshaft signal problem.

 

To follow up on this, you can't watch the tach right after starting the engine because the instrument cluster is still starting up and going through it's gauge sweep. Maybe if you turn the key to ON first and wait for the cluster to finish, then try to start the engine.

 

Had the no start happen to me twice today. I cycle the key quickly and then it starts right up so I'm pretty sure it's not mechanical in nature.

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I do just turn the key to ON and let the guages sweep before I turn the key to start the car. Just for giggles, one time I knew the car was not going to start, I turned the key like I was starting the car again while the starter was cranking just to see what it would do. It didn't make any difference but it was worth a shot. I guess that would also rule out the fuel pump even though mine has already been replaced along with all the other things. I have noticed that since they have replaced the ignition switch, it is happening much more frequently.

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  • 9 months later...

Sorry bring up an old thread but my car is doing this now and I was wondering if someone has found a solution to this yet. Thanks and sorry for the thread bump.

 

Still happens to me a few times a month maybe...been an annoying mystery to say the least...

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Still happens to me a few times a month maybe...been an annoying mystery to say the least...

Could you estimate what percentage of the time it stumbles on start up? My dad was saying that the stumbling was becoming more frequent. He has around 81K miles on the car

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I also was reading about some ground strap TSB but I believe it was for the 4 cylinder models. Would it pertain to the 3.5l V6 too? Thanks and sorry for all the questions

 

Yeah I read about that as well...doesn't seem to apply to this issue, at least not that I've heard of. I've taken mine to the dealer when it was under the regular warranty and they of course couldn't replicate it.

 

Could you estimate what percentage of the time it stumbles on start up? My dad was saying that the stumbling was becoming more frequent. He has around 81K miles on the car

 

I'd say maybe 5-10% of the time for me. Sometimes it goes through spurts where it will do it to me 2-3 times a week but then it won't do it for like a two weeks sometimes...very random. I even got a Steeda tune loaded in back in March and still have had it happen several times since then...was hoping the tune would magically fix it...lol

 

One of these days I will hook up an aftermarket fuel pressure gauge and maybe a tach or something on the coil wires to try and monitor spark signal, and try and observe the issue when it comes up. Maybe I can do this with my tuner? I dunno, I haven't dug into the capabilities of it being able to datalog....

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One of these days I will hook up an aftermarket fuel pressure gauge and maybe a tach or something on the coil wires to try and monitor spark signal, and try and observe the issue when it comes up. Maybe I can do this with my tuner? I dunno, I haven't dug into the capabilities of it being able to datalog....

 

You will need this to test the fuel pressure since there is no test port: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-OTC-310-180-Fuel-Pressure-Hose-Test-Adapter-/360978050625

 

The SCT tuner cannot monitor spark signal on it's own. With COP you'll need an inductive tester and an oscilloscope.

 

I would have done all this long ago, but the problem is trying to catch it when it happens since it is so sporadic and usually starts right away on the second attempt.

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