JasonC Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 (Fingers crossed & knocking on wood) Interestingly enough, since I took my car back last Saturday it has not broken down anymore- and it's been driven close to 400 miles. I'm starting to wonder if it was just bad gasoline that could have caused this? The first time I broke down it was shortly after I got a new tank of gas. The second time was also on that same tank. The third time I had got the gas tank filled up again, but about 1/4 tank of the original gas was still in there. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zangonli Posted October 29, 2011 Share Posted October 29, 2011 I also have the 2010 SE 3.0 V6 and I'm having this EXACT same problem. The wrench light comes on and the car loses its acceleration completely. As I pull over the side of the road and brake, the car will start shaking. The only way to fix it is to turn the car off and back on again. The wrench light will disappear after that and it'll start driving normally again. This happened last Thursday (10/6) and then again Friday (10/7). I took it to the dealer last Saturday, they said the computer couldn't find any codes and gave it back. Then it broke down again this past Tuesday. Took it back yesterday and its been a constant fight with the dealer. They can't find any codes again, claimed they drove it and nothing happened with them, they refuse to look at the actual car components, claimed it can't be the throttle body, etc. They told me there's nothing they can do. Wouldn't even give me a loaner car while they looked at it. I'm supposed to pick it back up tomorrow. Not sure what to do from this point. This car isn't safe to drive. This is really bad, I bought this car March 2010 and only have 35k miles on it (so my warranty is about to expire). I'm really disappointed with Ford here, don't think I will buy any of their products anymore. Not just because of the actual problems but I'm also tried of the runaround from the dealer. Before this I had a 2003 ZX2 for seven years/120k miles and not a single major problem with it. I'm wondering if this is a widespread issue on these cars that Ford is not acknowledging, since I'm seeing other people on here post the same thing. A Have the same problem with my 2010 3L sel awd about 15000 miles. This started a few weeks but now it's getting worse (not just on hot days, typically when getting off or getting on the gas). Seems to have an auto mode transmission aspect to it since I can rev it fine in neutral and can get it to keep running while in manual mode.). Really poor shifting in any event since day one (terrific handling car though!) It's going to the dealer as soon as I have time to do it. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zangonli Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 (Fingers crossed & knocking on wood) Interestingly enough, since I took my car back last Saturday it has not broken down anymore- and it's been driven close to 400 miles. I'm starting to wonder if it was just bad gasoline that could have caused this? The first time I broke down it was shortly after I got a new tank of gas. The second time was also on that same tank. The third time I had got the gas tank filled up again, but about 1/4 tank of the original gas was still in there. Perhaps.. I pump Mobil premium exclusively and I have pretty much the same problem as you. Let's see if i got a code and what the dealer can find out. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zangonli Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 Yeah, you need a new throttle body. We all wish they could take your word for it, but I don't think they're allowed to anymore. The dealer can't replace it under warranty unless they have evidence of failure in their hands, so you might have to help them out if you want it fixed for free. Try to figure out how you can make the problem occur. Does it happen on the same stretch of road? Does it happen right after accelerating or when slowing down? Does the car have to be running for some amount of time before it occurs? Make note of all these things. If you can figure out how to make the problem occur repeatedly, you might ask a tech to ride along with you so they can see the problem occur. Also, it wouldn't hurt to carry a video camera so you can record what happens after the light comes on. Record the wrench light, then show them your foot pressing the gas and the car not revving (tachometer). Get out and record the engine running rough and the noise of the exhaust missing. While still rolling, turn the car off and start it again so they can see the light goes out, the engine runs smooth again, and the throttle pedal works and the car can accelerate normally. That should sink it if the tech has any idea about how the limp mode operates and when it occurs. Also, it wouldn't hurt to print out that TSB in the post above yours and give it to the dealer. It doesn't deal with your engine, but it shows there are problems with other related throttle bodies on Ford cars. If your dealer still won't fix it, then you will either have to pay to have it replaced or take your car to another dealer. fantastic advice! Impossible to refute such a video showing fail safe/limp mode. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FusionDiffusion Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 Perhaps.. I pump Mobil premium exclusively and I have pretty much the same problem as you. Let's see if i got a code and what the dealer can find out. The car only needs 87 octane, not premium (especially true because all the gas in LA has ethanol in it). Mostly a waste of $$ but can also lead to extra engine/intake deposits especially if the car is driven lightly or never at WOT. Best advice is to use regular most of the time but get a tank of premium or another brand every so often. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drolds1 Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 Perhaps.. I pump Mobil premium exclusively and I have pretty much the same problem as you. Let's see if i got a code and what the dealer can find out. You're wasting your money and creating potential problems. Your owners guide: If you are experiencing starting, rough idle or hesitation driveabilityproblems during a cold start, try a different brand of “Regular” unleaded gasoline. Premium unleaded gasoline is not recommended for vehicles designed to use “Regular” unleaded gasoline because it may cause these problems to become more pronounced. If the problems persist, see your authorized dealer. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zangonli Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 You're wasting your money and creating potential problems. Your owners guide: Got it, sir! Always thought that the premium is easier on a combustion engine and seems to give it a little more pop (my 1989 alfa romeo runs and sounds better on premium), but now with all of the engine parameters being computerized I can see your point. Will switch to regular, but I don't think the intermittent engine/transmission/software problem we have here is related to fuel since it runs just fine most of the time. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 Got it, sir! Always thought that the premium is easier on a combustion engine and seems to give it a little more pop (my 1989 alfa romeo runs and sounds better on premium), but now with all of the engine parameters being computerized I can see your point. Will switch to regular, but I don't think the intermittent engine/transmission/software problem we have here is related to fuel since it runs just fine most of the time. Premium can help an engine run better, but if it does that on a modern engine designed to run on 87 octane then it means there is some problem with the engine that needs to be fixed (carbon buildup, etc.). 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goneracin Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 is this a problem only on the 3.0 v6? the only reason i ask is because i had a similar problem once on my 2011 2.5. the car only had about 3000 miles on it and when i started the car the wrench light came on, and the car shook and idled rough. no throttle response at all. i shut it off, restarted, havent had a problem since and the car has about 12500 miles now. i did bring it to the dealer soon after that happened and they told me no codes were found or anything. i dont understand how a light can come on indicating a problem but the computer doesnt know what the problem is or store any code. i have never heard of that in all my years as a mechanic. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonC Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 Well my luck's run out. Broke down again tonight. Its been over 1,000 miles since the last breakdown though. Such a quality vehicle. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zangonli Posted November 10, 2011 Share Posted November 10, 2011 I spoke with another dealer over the phone and explained the situation (including the OBD2 problems), they gave me the same lines as the first dealer: they only let service techs use the VDR. They said the only thing they could do for me is have me bring it in and let them ride it for a bit, if it doesn't happen when they ride it, the car would be returned to me. And they told me upfront that they do not do loaner cars. I've pretty much thrown in the towel on them ever fixing this under warranty. My family and I have been lifelong Ford customers, but not anymore! I will never buy another Ford product again after seeing how they treat customers. Sorry to hear about your frustration. Intermittent electrical problems like ours here are not restricted to just one manufacturer - my sister had an Acura whose engine would all of a sudden shut off without warning. Acura could not duplicate it and so it never really got fixed - she eventually traded the car in, to the same dealer though. Dealer just called me - they did see a code: throttle body malfunction. They replaced the throttle body... Let's hope that fixed it. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zangonli Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 So yes, the problem I had with the throttle being suddenly disabled (and the wrench light coming on) seems to have been due to a bad throttle body unit. The unit was replaced by the dealer, under warranty (my car is a 2010 with about 15000 miles on it), about a week or so ago, and the problem has not occurred since. Now, I must also say that acceleration from stop is noticeably smoother now, AND the transmission "flare" that also occurred upon shifting from 2d to 3rd has also been significantly diminished! :o Will point this out under the transmission problem thread here. Back to reasonably happy motoring.. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stein5830 Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 (edited) My '10 SE with 3-liter engine, 18K miles, started this about a month ago. Driving at constant speed, sudden loss of throttle control, engine would only idle. Pull to side of road, shut off, re-start, and everything seemed normal. No codes stored, fault lamps off. This behavior was repeated 3-4 times, usually when my wife was driving. Happened on the interstate, and she was NOT happy. (Neither was I). Finally, one day, it happened 4 times in her 12-mile commute. This time, it finally stored a code: P2111. Dealer read the code and did another pinpoint test. Diagnosis: throttle body defective. Replaced under warranty, and things are apparently OK. Dealer had the throttle body on the shelf. Makes me think there have been some numbers of similar problems. I've seen internet forum references to this same fault in other Ford models, too. I really hope mine is still covered under warranty. I bought CPO at 38K and started happened twice in the past few days, once on the highway at 80 MPH (Speed Limit -70 ;P)! I will be taking it in but to see if it stores any codes but so far i haven't been able to find any with my Black and Decker ODB-2 ($15 at TJ Maxx of all places). I will keep you guys informed if the Ford Dealer says it is the throttle body as well. Edit: Did some search this morning before heading off to work and realized that the throttle body is not covered under CPO warranty. I will be taking it to a local mechanic and not a Ford dealer (nearest 1 is 45 minute extra drive in rush hour traffic). Also I will be keeping the ODB 2 sensor in the car to read the error codes if/when it happens again. Edited November 22, 2011 by stein5830 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonC Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 (edited) Broke down again tonight, this time I was able to pull over in a safe spot and plug in the code reader while the engine was still running. I got the P2111 code that was mentioned on this thread earlier. Googling that code shows its for throttle body problems. When I restarted the car, sure enough, the code was gone. But I took several pictures. As I suspected, the codes are resetting every time the engine is turned off and on. Tomorrow I'm going to call the dealer and tell them I have the code, let's see if they fix it now. Also I'm over the bumper-to-bumper warranty now but they should still fix it since this problem was started before the warranty expired. But this is Ford so I'm expecting a fight to get it fixed still. Edited November 30, 2011 by JasonC 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stein5830 Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 (edited) Broke down again tonight, this time I was able to pull over in a safe spot and plug in the code reader while the engine was still running. I got the P2111 code that was mentioned on this thread earlier. Googling that code shows its for throttle body problems. When I restarted the car, sure enough, the code was gone. But I took several pictures. As I suspected, the codes are resetting every time the engine is turned off and on. Tomorrow I'm going to call the dealer and tell them I have the code, let's see if they fix it now. Also I'm over the bumper-to-bumper warranty now but they should still fix it since this problem was started before the warranty expired. But this is Ford so I'm expecting a fight to get it fixed still. My car froze up on my 3 times today. I am over the new car warranty. I spoke to the dealer and they were aware of the issues with the fusions. I dropped it off and willblet you guys know but I am sure as is the mechanic that the issue requires the replacement of the throttle body. Edit: Spoke with the dealer its ~$500 to fix out of warranty but can vary by location from $400 - $600. Also i encourage everyone to begin filling complaints to the NHTSA (National Highway Transportation Safety Administration) (link below). In the hopes that we can guilt or force Ford to issue a recall and not have so many owners have to pay out of pocket for these repairs. https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/index.xhtml Edited November 30, 2011 by stein5830 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonC Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Dealership finally said they'd replace the throttle body under warranty. Its supposed to be done by tommorow (makes me think they have a bunch of these laying around for all the Fusions that need repair). 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morganjette Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 I recently purchased a 2010 Ford Fusion, used with 26K miles on it for a commuter vehicle. My wife was driving the vehicle and boom wrench light, shaking, and no throttle response, etc. I took the vehicle to the dealership and they could not duplicate. As I was driving the vehicle home, sure as the sun will rise the next day, it occured to me. Took it to a more reliable Ford Dealership, was treated very well and they gave me loaner vehicle while they looked. The dealership treated it as under warranty service but they too could not duplicate the problem. The dealership told me they just fixed a 2010 Ford Fusion with same problems I had just described, but for me no dice. Both dealerships put on about 100 miles as well. I spoke with service department manager (at the more reliable dealership) and we hashed out a couple options. He, in fact, gave me the chance to take a VDR around with me. As of now, I put on another 150 miles and the problem has not occured since the two original times. I get about a week (4 days in to this) to use the VDR after that, the service manager said the only other option, so a tech wasn't tied up on a "ghost" problem, was to let the tech use the vehicle for his day to day vehicle. Such as driving it back and forth from home to work. The dealership would pay for fuel and such but no replacement vehicle for me. This really has been a nightmare because I KNOW the vehicle does this. In southern California, traffic would just run over my wife. I'd think I'd be fine and not panic but it IS a problem still. Same thing that everyone else has talked about in this forum has occured to me with no codes detected after it happens, starts right up after like nothing happened, dealership won't fix unless they see it or occurs to one of them, etc. I gave all information to the tech about codes and problem but they can't fix under warranty if they can't prove it. Just want to be able to say to everyone with same problem use the link provided in this forum to make a complaint about what is going on. Hopefully Ford will be able to recognize what's occuring somehow and make the proper adjustment needed. For those of you who no about "duty" over time Ford will have to look into it because it is their "duty" to do so (not saying it's a faulty floor mat or anything). With mine, not sure if I need to restart vehicle a couple times to reset computer and get the problem to duplicate or just drive all over God's creation in one trip to duplicate. I'll give details later. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morganjette Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 (edited) FYI, VDR captured problem that was occuring and guess what? Throttle body. They had it changed in one day. Sweet. Oh and I put 500 miles on it before it went berzerk again. Thought it would never happen. I telephoned Ford and gave them the information about what I was going through with the vehicle. I was given a case number for the incident and they relayed the case number to the dealer working on my vehicle. I gave the dealership props for handling the situtation in such a professional manner and explained I was happy with their service. What could I do? I had no proof this occured and they tried to help out to the fullest. Overall, I'm happy with what occured even though I had a P.O.S. to deal with at the time. Good luck everyone. Edited April 27, 2012 by morganjette 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outdoors35 Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 I have 46,600 miles on my 2010 Fusion SE, and had the same experience twice in two days. The car stalled, the wrench light was on, and it had a very rough idle. No response from the accelerator. I used the free roadside assistance wrecker service and had it towed it to my local dealer. (I couldn't trust it to make it under it's own power.) After keeping it overnight, they diagnosed the problem as a bad throttle body. Since it's not covered by the powertrain warranty, the repair cost me $652.67. When it comes time to trade, I'm returning to Toyota or Nissan. My Corolla, Altima, and Frontier never left me by the side of the road, and they never had to be towed. This latest problem, plus the squeaky blower motor, the TSB on the transmission, the bad regulator on the driver's power window, and the broken fuel fill door, have really soured my opinion of Ford. I used to brag on the car to my friends and coworkers, but now I tell them about the problems I've had with it, and I recommend they not buy a Ford. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 I have 46,600 miles on my 2010 Fusion SE, and had the same experience twice in two days. The car stalled, the wrench light was on, and it had a very rough idle. No response from the accelerator. I used the free roadside assistance wrecker service and had it towed it to my local dealer. (I couldn't trust it to make it under it's own power.) After keeping it overnight, they diagnosed the problem as a bad throttle body. Since it's not covered by the powertrain warranty, the repair cost me $652.67. When it comes time to trade, I'm returning to Toyota or Nissan. My Corolla, Altima, and Frontier never left me by the side of the road, and they never had to be towed. This latest problem, plus the squeaky blower motor, the TSB on the transmission, the bad regulator on the driver's power window, and the broken fuel fill door, have really soured my opinion of Ford. I used to brag on the car to my friends and coworkers, but now I tell them about the problems I've had with it, and I recommend they not buy a Ford. Meanwhile others have had no problems at all including my 06 (except for one broken door handle - $60 and 30 minutes to fix). While it's understandable that you're upset you really can't use anecdotal evidence like that to recommend one brand over another. Those other brands have owners with the same or worse problems than yours. My Aviator was terrible but the Edge we replaced it with has been 100% trouble free for 4 years. The grass isn't always greener. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outdoors35 Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 akirby, I'm glad you are not having any problems with your Edge. It's nice driving a car you can depend on. I'm glad your '06 Fusion is relatively trouble-free also. It makes me wonder if the throttle body problem could be a mainly four-cylinder issue. But, my evidence is not anecdotal...I have the repair bills in hand. When others ask about the car, I tell them about my experiences. As I said, my Toyota and my Nissans never left me on the side of the road, and never had to be towed. So the grass was greener in my case. I'm not a hater, I'm just aggravated with Ford. Best of luck to you, and I wish you many miles of trouble-free driving. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 But, my evidence is not anecdotal...I have the repair bills in hand. Anecdotal means it's based on a very small sample size and not a valid statistical sample size. It doesn't mean that it didn't happen. Ford sells 300,000 Fusions every year and 2M vehicles total. You can't make a judgement about a brand or a model based on ONE vehicle. You have to look at broader statistically significant samples like JD Power or even Consumer Reports. It doesn't mean an individual vehicle from any mfr won't have problems or even be a lemon. But those other brands also have lemons. The question is how likely are you to have problems on a new vehicle and you can't tell that by one vehicle from any mfr. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outdoors35 Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 By no means do I think all Fords are just like my Fusion. But it is a fact that I have already had several repairs on this car, many more so than I did with my Toyota and my Nissans. And it is a fact that those other cars never stalled while driving them, and never had to be towed. My grown kids are now driving them, and they tell me the cars are still dependable and running fine. Anectdotal? Yes. But, these are my personal experiences, and that's what I am being influenced by. The $652 throttle body repair was a hard pill to swallow. I've always taken good care of my cars. I drive them gently, and follow the scheduled maintenence guides religiously. And I have taught this responsibility to my kids. Cars are too expensive to neglect or abuse. In the future, when asked about the Fusion, I will do as you suggested and not recommend one brand over another. But I won't sugarcoat or minimize the problems I've had, either. I'll tell the truth, and they can decide what's best for them. Perhaps they are digesting the info from several sources, including the ones you mentioned, as well as Fusion owners on the street, before making an informed decision. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bert Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 Sometimes it's the dealership techs that can't seem to fix something and it's only one problem but many visits. In our fleet, we have many brands. We've had problems with our Nissans and Toyotas as well as the others. No car is trouble free. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 There are people who have had worse problems with a Honda or Toyota but you dont hear them telling others not to buy one. Fusions overall have been proven to be just as reliable as Accords or Camrys. You just can't go by one anecdotal vehicle. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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