warriorpioneer Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 Everyone, I am in need of any ideas. I just changed that battery on my 2006 Fusion. The old battery was still the original. We changed it and restarted the car and it took longer to start than it would usually and it idled poorly. We let it sit and then it bagan to idle better so we turned the ignition off. It was not run the next day and the next time that we started it again took longer and started slower than before. It idled hard but seemed to get better. It would shift into gear and rolled backward but when I got it to the street it would not go forward once it was shifted into drive. I have encountered the same issue as many other people in regards to the "engine coolant being below temperature". I do not know if this has anything to do with why it will not get its idle timing back. Thanks to anyone who might have some ideas that might help me get it back to running! 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drolds1 Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 The search function is your friend. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
con_fusion Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 (edited) Everyone, I am in need of any ideas. I just changed that battery on my 2006 Fusion. The old battery was still the original. We changed it and restarted the car and it took longer to start than it would usually and it idled poorly. We let it sit and then it bagan to idle better so we turned the ignition off. It was not run the next day and the next time that we started it again took longer and started slower than before. It idled hard but seemed to get better. It would shift into gear and rolled backward but when I got it to the street it would not go forward once it was shifted into drive. I have encountered the same issue as many other people in regards to the "engine coolant being below temperature". I do not know if this has anything to do with why it will not get its idle timing back. Thanks to anyone who might have some ideas that might help me get it back to running! On the newer Fusions, there is a learning process to follow for the fuel trim etc. You may have something like that in your owners manual. If you haven't already, take a look and see what the process is. I seem to remember it was something like starting the car and allowing it to idle with the A/C off for several minutes etc. Hopefully, following that will get things back to normal. (EDIT) Guess drolds1 responded as I was typing, if you follow his link above it takes you to more detailed info... Edited September 26, 2011 by con_fusion 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennisw Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 The computer needs to relearn the settings. The best method is start the car and drive at a steady speed 45-50 mph for around 10 - 20 miles so the computer can learn the fuel curve. This will correct your problems this has to be done on any car built since 1996 with DBDII systems. The owners manual goes over this and gives alternate method if you are not able to do the short learning drive. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warriorpioneer Posted September 27, 2011 Author Share Posted September 27, 2011 Everyone, Thank you for your suggestions. I have gotten it fixed! I read in a different thread that someone used a pocket scan. They found that there were two codes that had been set off. P2104 and P2112. They involve the throttle being forced idle and stuck closed. I used the pocket scan and erased the two codes. Instantly the engine sounded better and the car idled better. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennisw Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 Great learning experience for you, these codes were forced because the post battery removal procedures of immediate driving the car were not followed. After you clear the codes it is again necessary to drive the car in the learning mode to regain the data needed for the computer. For anyone else or next time it happens to you remember to always take the car for a spin and not in stop and go driving. The computer has to learn back the data that controls these functions and it is very important to follow these procedures. You could have accomplished the same thing by disconnecting the battery for a length of time say 10 minutes. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woody Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 For anyone else or next time it happens to you remember to always take the car for a spin and not in stop and go driving. The computer has to learn back the data that controls these functions and it is very important to follow these procedures. You could have accomplished the same thing by disconnecting the battery for a length of time say 10 minutes. I'm glad I read this post! My battery died yesterday and I got a jump start, hoping it was because I had spent some time with doors open and accessories running while replacing my rear door handles... When I went to start it again today, it was still dead. So, 6 years out of a battery isn't bad and I'm heading to CostCo after work to grab a new battery. Your comment of " not in stop and go driving" however concerns me, as I live in Chicago and it takes a good 10-15 minutes of stop and go driving to reach a road where I can drive more than 35mph for more than 1/8 of a mile. I'll read my manual when I get home, but hopefully this won't be a problem. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollemup Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 Battery on my 2008 died Tuesday nite. Got a jump & got home & charged overnight. Got to Auto Zone & had new Batt installed. Started poorly, got "Wrench" light & "Check Engine" light & couldn't accelerate over 2 MPH. Limped home. Stopped by Ford & was told to have it towed in, it was in "Protection Mode." Ha! Read all the posts here. Disconnected & reconnected the RED (+) cable. Turned key ON, BUT DID NOT CRANK IT for 30 seconds. All the circuits rebooted. All the warning lights went out. Car drove just fine. Thanks guys, for saving me at least $200! 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaronscx Posted February 18, 2020 Share Posted February 18, 2020 New battery car starts but throttle wont work Put key in ignition Push gas pedal to floor......let off Turn key on as if you were gonna start it up don't...push gas to floor.....let off Turn key off Turn key on and start. to restart throttle body 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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