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Any Questions... I work at a Dealer


SteveA27
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So I finally found a scanner that could read airbag codes and it pulled up the code c1946 Seat Track Position Switch Circuit Open. Any help with what I need to do to fix that? Anything would be great! Thanks!

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I purchased a new 2013 fusion, se. The book is confusing on the Navigation, evidently I don't have the navigation with my fordmytouch system. Sales person did not explain the car very well and I was not attentive enough. The book says there is a SD card that I can purchase, opt of course. But if I do not have the Navigation system will it do any good to purchase?

Second, it did not come with fog lights, can I put them in and is the wiring already there for them?

Thanks. jp

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I purchased a new 2013 fusion, se. The book is confusing on the Navigation, evidently I don't have the navigation with my fordmytouch system. Sales person did not explain the car very well and I was not attentive enough. The book says there is a SD card that I can purchase, opt of course. But if I do not have the Navigation system will it do any good to purchase?

Second, it did not come with fog lights, can I put them in and is the wiring already there for them?

Thanks. jp

 

The SD card is what holds the navigation software.. You will still need other parts for the actual GPS portion of the set up. If you did not buy your car with Navigation, unfortunately.. You are SOL as for getting Navigation installed in an OEM manner. Ford doesn't offer it.

 

For your second question.. You can add fog lights, but the wiring is not present for them. Some Ford dealerships, may add these after the fact and some don't. If not, you will have to find an aftermarket shop that would head that type of build for you!

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  • 2 months later...

guys please help,

 

I bought a 2012 ford fusion hybrid and the steering is way heavy and has no center feel to it since I bought it.

 

yesterday I went to scan codes it came up with this:

 

U0100 CMDTCs lost communication with ECM/PCM A

U2101 CMDTCs control module configuration incompatible

 

and it has 2 fault codes for the PSCM-power steering control module .

 

any body please help is it expensive to fix??

the car isn't under warranty,it has only 200miles on it. warranty has been cancelled due to an accident,i bought it that way...

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  • 2 months later...

I have a 06' SE Fusion. I bought brand new. I have been having an issue with the instrument panel warning lights flashing. Everything from Brake to check engine, air bad, etc. I thought it might be the battery(replace in Dec.12'). The car runs fine, but the gauges drop down then back up(Tachometer, fuel, etc.). Any idea what's causing this? Dealer I bought is 1/2hr drive. I refuse to take to local dealer due too many bad reports.

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  • 3 years later...

2014 Ford Fusion se has a leak in cooling system and temperature gauge is all the way on hot. Even without the engine running. Coolant is disappearing but I don't where it's going. Sensor says engine coolant overtemperature. Last time that sensor said this a gasket was blown. And I had just bought it in 2015 when after 3mths a head was blown. I just hope it's not that again cause I no longer have a warranty for that. Please help!!!!!

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  • 1 year later...
On 5/21/2017 at 3:27 PM, Katrisha_arvie said:

2014 Ford Fusion se has a leak in cooling system and temperature gauge is all the way on hot. Even without the engine running. Coolant is disappearing but I don't where it's going. Sensor says engine coolant overtemperature. Last time that sensor said this a gasket was blown. And I had just bought it in 2015 when after 3mths a head was blown. I just hope it's not that again cause I no longer have a warranty for that. Please help!!!!!

Just ran into the same issue on my 2013 after a long history of coolant system issues (had the dreaded water pump failure, heater bypass valve, you name it, all out of warranty). These cars are stupidly designed in that the overtemperature warning it gives sets a P1299 (IIRC) code, which is permanently recorded, along with a temporary code which is clearable, but causes the temp gauge to always read as overtemp, and will not let you accelerate above idle while it isn't cleared. Once the warning pops up on your dash, you have a second or two to turn the car off before the code confirms, but this is only really viable if you are sitting at a light. If it sets, you will need to clear it to drive the car again. This retarded design cost me a day waiting 'just to be safe' before I finally retrieved my car, along with a whole host of other terrible stories.

 

Grab a cheap ELM327 OBD interface (e.g. here) and you'll be able to pull and clear codes yourself, in addition to being able to see in real time what your car is doing, and what your car was doing at the instant something bad happened (via freeze frames). These should never be above $30, and can be as low as $11 if you opt for a chinese knockoff model. You can get some fancy code readers from Autozone with their loaner program, but they wont ever be able to read the 'advanced' modules (e.g. ABS) should you need to. For reference, the ELM327 is the name of the actual chip that allows you to interface your laptop/phone etc with your car. Generally, any ELM 327 device will be equivalent to any other in features, though some have faster bandwidths than others (the OBDLink I linked can flash just about anything at 2Mbps with no issues, which is about the fastest supported speed).

 

Then that leaves the source of your major coolant leak. I'll report back on what mine was, just pulled it into the garage now.

 

On 5/21/2017 at 6:21 PM, akirby said:

Nothing we can do here. You need a mechanic to test and diagnose it.

Typical unhelpful dealer answer. "I'll help you only when you pay me". See above for an actual helpful answer.

Edited by someoneinnc
More actually helpful info on OBD interfaces
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24 minutes ago, someoneinnc said:

Typical unhelpful dealer answer. "I'll help you only when you pay me". See above for an actual helpful answer.

 

I don't work for a dealer or Ford.   And your answer did absolutely nothing to actually diagnose where the coolant was leaking and how to fix it.  It doesn't matter what your vehicle is doing - coolant leaks could be a hose, a radiator, the degas bottle, water pump, etc.   No way to diagnose that over the internet.  Also note I didn't say dealer I said mechanic.

 

Maybe your first post shouldn't be so judgemental about a perfectly helpful post.  

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4 hours ago, akirby said:

And your answer did absolutely nothing to actually diagnose where the coolant was leaking and how to fix it.  It doesn't matter what your vehicle is doing - coolant leaks could be a hose, a radiator, the degas bottle, water pump, etc.   No way to diagnose that over the internet.

Your answer literally had zero information at all. You told him to go to a mechanic. Then you spoke for the rest of the community, saying that nobody could do anything, which is categorically false. My answer told him how to get the car moving, and details the strange Ford-related reason his car may say he is overheated, even though it couldn't possibly be true. This info isn't found anywhere else on this forum (I googled), and his post is what I landed on to enter this forum (via google) as it perfectly described my symptoms. I promised to return with info from my vehicle once I got a look at it.

 

There are plenty of auto forums on the internet where helpful people diagnose far more difficult faults, like vibrations or intermittent electrical faults. Coolant leaks are a walk in the park as the coolant is literally its own tracer. Do you see red/orange/green spots? No -> internal, yes -> external. Internal is likely head gasket or cracked cylinders -> check oil for mixing? Nope -> check compression. External is just tracing with a flashlight until you find your culprit. Internal usually has other symptoms like overflowing oil, which is obvious enough he would have mentioned it, or poor idle, which is also obvious, and he also didn't mention.

 

In my case, I have a 2013 with a 1.6. I pulled it into the garage, removed the (drenched) shroud underneath the engine, and starting tracking the (copious) leak. Took less than 5 minutes to find this:

qY6jG07.jpg

GEcS036.jpg

It is difficult to see in the pic because I cleaned it up beforehand, but this hose is the one circled below, in purple.

oIRw1lG.jpg

This hose branches in 3 places and, instead of using standard tees and clamps like has been used since the invention of cars, the hose is a single assembly, and, as murphy's law would have it, is just about guaranteed to fail at one of these branches at some point. Though the hose can be ordered and relatively easily installed, this happens to be the exact subject of a couple of TSBs as it can cause engine fires, amongst other unsavory problems. Somehow, even though my fusion just about lives at the dealership, this TSB was never applied. Since the parts (the TSB kit updates some other ancillary parts, like the degas bottle) and labor are free, I decided to let them deal with this one.

 

In your case, the first question you need to answer is 'do I see coolant'. If you see any pink/red spots on the ground, great! Your leak is external. If you are losing as much as I was (3 quarts in ~40 miles), you should have little puddles following you whenever you park. If you have a slower leak, then you can't necessarily be sure it isn't external unless you remove the absorbent fiberboard shroud. Get the car up on ramps/jackstands and remove the shroud (should be 8 torx bolts, be careful as the rear two are longer than the rest). Work your way through the textual flowchart I posted above - you'll only need a flashlight, screwdriver+torx tips, and some jacks/jackstands or ramps. We can certainly walk you through this online.

 

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First of all, that post was OVER A YEAR OLD, so I doubt very seriously that he still needs help.

 

Second - He didn’t say he needed help being able to drive it.   He said it was losing coolant and he had no idea where it was going.  Which probably means a water pump or a head gasket neither of which you can diagnose or fix over the internet.

 

If you want to help people that’s great - no need to denigrate others.  Sometimes see a mechanic is a perfectly valid answer.

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  • 1 month later...

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