Jump to content

2011 2.5L Oil Filter MotorCraft vs Generic


glynner252
 Share

Recommended Posts

So a couple topics below I was explaining about my cold start knocking noise. Other forum members told me that the oil shop that I get my oil changed at probably used a generic oil filter with no anti drain back valve and that could probably be the issue. The noise subsides when the engine warms up. Climbed under my 2011 fusion and found they installed a purolator V241 oil filter. So yes it looks like they tried to save some money and installed an off brand filter. When I googled the filter, the specs show that the filter does have a anti drain back valve. So now my next question is, are there manufactures that make better anti drain back valves than others? It is my understanding that the motor craft has a silicone valve. This benefits me how? I'm not talking about filtering capabilities, just the valve. I just purchased a Motor Craft oil filter, but is that going to be any different and if so why? Because of the silicone valve? Looking for a little education on this. Seems like I'm splitting hairs.

Edited by glynner252
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Purolator is a good brand. In fact, I think they might even make the Motorcraft filters. However, the difference between the two is the material used for the anti-drainback valve. The Motorcraft filters use silicone, which is more pliable at cold temperatures vs butyl rubber that other filters use. So it's a very small difference.

 

The Purolator Group 7 line of filters for service garages are most likely identical to the filters you can buy in the store. So I don't think think the filter is necessarily the cause of the problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

its very simple, the car was designed for a motorcraft filter, thats what should be used.

 

i can only explain it due to my education on ford diesels. when i attended classes from ford on the 7.3 6.0 6.4 and 6.7 diesels, they showed the importance of using motorcraft filters. every single one of them had a small but important difference. this was compared to all other brands of filter including but not limited to wix, napa, purolator, fram, stp, bosch, and mobil 1. they showed the filters side by side, and there was always something different. one fuel filter had some type of material wrapped around it to help seperate water. the aftermarket one didnt have it. another was an oil filter with an anti drainback valve. the aftermarket one did have the valve, but the filter was about 1/8 inch shorter (cartrage type) so the valve wouldnt be pushed by the cap when installed. this rendered the valve useless. another was a filter without a strong support in the inside, therefore the aftermarket ones would collapse and loose their filtering capabilities. another one didnt have an orientation notch cut in it, allowing the filter to be installed backwards.

 

the list goes on and on. i guess what it comes down to is that its not worth saving $1.50 to not use the parts your car was designed to use, whatever the reason is.

 

now did the filter cause or is it causing your knocking noise? probably not. it could be a defect from the factory, it could be that the oil used wasnt 5w20, it could be an addative that was put in the oil, maybe the shop didnt top it off one time, (the 2.5 takes an odd ball amount of oil, i think 5.3 qts). who knows what the cause is. its tough to internet diagnose something like that. but i think the point is, eliminate variables, and use the correct parts, then if the knocking continues, maybe you can eliminate the filter as the current cause.

 

hope this explination wasnt too confusing. best of luck.

Edited by Goneracin
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am inclined to believe that this is more of an oil related issue than the filter. You can't be sure what weight or spec oil the corner luber put in your vehicle. Also, putting the additive in on top of "whatever" oil was likely not a good idea. See if installing Motorcraft 5W20 and filter changes the situation. Might be a combination of factors involved.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Purolator is a good brand. In fact, I think they might even make the Motorcraft filters. However, the difference between the two is the material used for the anti-drainback valve. The Motorcraft filters use silicone, which is more pliable at cold temperatures vs butyl rubber that other filters use. So it's a very small difference.

 

The Purolator Group 7 line of filters for service garages are most likely identical to the filters you can buy in the store. So I don't think think the filter is necessarily the cause of the problem.

 

Motorcraft oil filters are indeed made by Purolator, however, they're made to Ford specs. So, you're spot-on there. The Purolator filter you get at the auto parts store or at a service garage may not necessarily mean it's the same as the Motorcraft.

 

That said, Purolator is one of the better brands.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The best ting you can do (imho if your car is still under warranty) is Change the Oil and use a Motorcraft filter. If that does not take care of the problem then take the car to the dealership and explain it to them. Plan on leaving it overnight for an atttempt to duplicate the noise in the morning. Regardless of the findings, get a copy of any paperwork or R.O. invoice. Just in case it happens again out of warranty.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...