mav3rick Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 Hi, I have a 3.0L 2010 Ford Fusion. I have never had any issues and recently I purchased a CAI and tuner through Steeda. I hooked it up and everything ran great for a week. One day getting into the car I was just getting going, accelerating into 2nd gear and the wrench light came on and lost all power. I was going slow and as I tried to come to a stop it shuddered a bit. I turned the engine completely off, waited 20 seconds and started it back up. It took a bit to star, but once it started I never had an issue again. This was about 3 or 4 weeks ago. I figured it was just happen stance. Today driving home I had under 30 miles left of gas and getting to a station, I came off a light and accelerated and same thing happened. Wrench light and all. I stopped, turned it back on (difficult start) and got about 200 feet down the road and it happened again. I thought it could be a lack of gas. However when I started it back up again the Check Engine light was on and stayed on. I got to the gas station, filled up, engine light still on, and drove off (difficult start again). I am home now and trying to figure out a few things. I can check the engine light with the tuner, but I don't want to clear the code before taking it to the dealer. I called them and they said they would replace the throttle body if that was the issue under an "emissions warranty". Could it be that I ran the gas to low and it messed with the throttle body or something else to give off a code? Or should I check the code, and put the tune back to stock with the factory intake and take it in? Thanks for your help. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav3rick Posted May 14, 2012 Author Share Posted May 14, 2012 In addition, if it is a bad throttle body... would it be back to drive to work with the check engine light on tomorrow? Is it dangerous to the engine to drive around? It sounds like from reading the forums that other individuals would drive around quite often without it happening again.... 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FusionDiffusion Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 You can check the code, but if it's for the throttle body, then there is nothing else to worry about. Whether you feel safe to drive is up to you since you could go into FMEA mode at any time and loose power. It might happen tomorrow or it might not happen for a month. Other than that there should be no dangers. I don't think low gas caused your problem, it was just happenstance. Personally I would put your tune back to stock, since they will definitely be working with the PCM to get the code and replace the throttle body. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav3rick Posted May 15, 2012 Author Share Posted May 15, 2012 Thanks for the update. I checked the code and it was P2112, the throttle body. However, this morning when I woke up the check engine light went off and I made it to work 25 miles with out an issue. I am sure its only a matter of time before it happens again and does need to be taken in. Thanks for the update and assurance -Ted 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drolds1 Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Thanks for the update. I checked the code and it was P2112, the throttle body. However, this morning when I woke up the check engine light went off and I made it to work 25 miles with out an issue. I am sure its only a matter of time before it happens again and does need to be taken in. Thanks for the update and assurance -Ted Thanks for the update. I checked the code and it was P2112, the throttle body. However, this morning when I woke up the check engine light went off and I made it to work 25 miles with out an issue. I am sure its only a matter of time before it happens again and does need to be taken in. Thanks for the update and assurance -Ted You are fortunate that it threw a code. TB problems don't always trigger the CEL. Now the code is stored and can be read, unless you erased it. It will happen again. Go get it fixed before the car becomes undriveable. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav3rick Posted May 15, 2012 Author Share Posted May 15, 2012 I did not delete it, however the check engine light went off this morning when I started the car... do we know if it is still stored? Plus I need to put it back to Factory Tune which will most likely erase the code... but it needs to be done, agreed. Thanks for the heads up. Ted 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FusionDiffusion Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 If it doesn't happen again for like 3 key cycles, then the CEL will be turned off, but the code is usually still stored. If you flashed it back to factory, my guess is that the codes were cleared as well. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav3rick Posted May 16, 2012 Author Share Posted May 16, 2012 It was recommended to me by Steeda to place everything back in stock. There is a chance that the code will store... but he said I may need to wait until it happens again to get the code. Luckily, the "emissions warranty" that is covering this product has plenty of miles before it expires. I am just hoping it happens in a safe place lol. Thanks for your help again -Ted 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drolds1 Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 It was recommended to me by Steeda to place everything back in stock. There is a chance that the code will store... but he said I may need to wait until it happens again to get the code. Luckily, the "emissions warranty" that is covering this product has plenty of miles before it expires. I am just hoping it happens in a safe place lol. Thanks for your help again -Ted It was recommended to me by Steeda to place everything back in stock. There is a chance that the code will store... but he said I may need to wait until it happens again to get the code. Luckily, the "emissions warranty" that is covering this product has plenty of miles before it expires. I am just hoping it happens in a safe place lol. Thanks for your help again -Ted You may not have the amount of mileage under the emissions warranty that you think you have. You haven't indicated what state you live in but the non-California emissions warranty is as follows: The warranty coverage period for: • Passenger cars, light duty trucks (applies to vehicles up to 8,500 pounds GVWR) — 8 years or 80,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for catalytic converter, electronic emission control unit (ECU), transmission control module (TCM), and any other onboard emissions diagnostic module — 2 years or 24,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for all other covered parts. Note that the TB is not covered under the 8/80 provision. Other members have had to pay for TB replacement on fairly new cars. However, you might still be covered under the B2B warranty if you're under the time/mileage limits. As I suggested earlier, get it fixed sooner than later. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav3rick Posted May 16, 2012 Author Share Posted May 16, 2012 I live in Vermont. I have 42k miles on my Fusion. I just switched everything back to stock and it cleared my codes. I have to have a code before I can take it to the dealer and have them fix it under warranty. I have no idea though how many miles before the emissions warranty runs off. Thank you guys for your help and suggestions. I am going to have it fixed as soon as I can when I get that code back up. I am also trying to keep track of the miles in between the instances the throttle body acts up. It seems random for now unless others know how often? -Ted 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 I live in Vermont. I have 42k miles on my Fusion. I just switched everything back to stock and it cleared my codes. I have to have a code before I can take it to the dealer and have them fix it under warranty. I have no idea though how many miles before the emissions warranty runs off. Emissions warranty is 80K miles but the throttle body is not covered by the emissions warranty as Artie already pointed out. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav3rick Posted May 17, 2012 Author Share Posted May 17, 2012 Yeah, I have been hearing that... but the ford dealership is telling me other wise... ugh i guess ill let them fix it for free then lol. I will get the details afterwards and fill you guys in. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drolds1 Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 Yeah, I have been hearing that... but the ford dealership is telling me other wise... ugh i guess ill let them fix it for free then lol. I will get the details afterwards and fill you guys in. If they're willing to fix it for free, great. But how do they know what the problem is before you bring the car in for diagnosis? Furthermore, if they submit a warranty claim to Ford for a non-covered repair, it's going to be denied. At that point they can choose to eat the cost or charge you for it. My guess is that it'll be the latter choice. If the TB does indeed need replacement, it seems to run in the $400-600 range. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 Don't believe anything the dealership tells you - especially when it conflicts with Ford's documentation. If they're willing to fix it for free and you get it in writing before they start the work - go for it. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav3rick Posted May 17, 2012 Author Share Posted May 17, 2012 Get it in writing before working on it.. good point. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav3rick Posted May 18, 2012 Author Share Posted May 18, 2012 SO I switched back to stock tune... and ever since I have noticed a real lack of power in acceleration, and much lower RPMs in general. Is this due to going back to stock tune, or are other people with the throttle body issue experiencing this? The code was P2112 and I linked a Service Procedure for the part here -> http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/fordguy4u/2012-03-16_174157_a1.pdf Is this TSB what I am experience? They mention the code may or may not be present. I guess my question; is this directly due to the throttle body or could there be another part that has been affected? Thanks for your help 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FusionDiffusion Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 P2112 - Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) System - Stuck Closed That has to be the throttle body. It should be replaced like the TSB says. Lack of power could be throttle body or stock tune (see what happens with a new TB). 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drolds1 Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 SO I switched back to stock tune... and ever since I have noticed a real lack of power in acceleration, and much lower RPMs in general. Is this due to going back to stock tune, or are other people with the throttle body issue experiencing this? The code was P2112 and I linked a Service Procedure for the part here -> http://ww2.justanswe...6_174157_a1.pdf Is this TSB what I am experience? They mention the code may or may not be present. I guess my question; is this directly due to the throttle body or could there be another part that has been affected? Thanks for your help SO I switched back to stock tune... and ever since I have noticed a real lack of power in acceleration, and much lower RPMs in general. Is this due to going back to stock tune, or are other people with the throttle body issue experiencing this? The code was P2112 and I linked a Service Procedure for the part here -> http://ww2.justanswe...6_174157_a1.pdf Is this TSB what I am experience? They mention the code may or may not be present. I guess my question; is this directly due to the throttle body or could there be another part that has been affected? Thanks for your help That TSB doesn't apply to your car. The 3.0 was not included. You had different symptoms anyway. My car (3.5L) exhibited the symptms described in the TSB, i.e., rolling and slow idle, until ithe CEL and wrench light came on and it got much worse. That said, it's a pretty safe bet that the TB is the culprit and is going to need replacement. They aren't serviceable. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
halfassed911 Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 Hey guys, sorry to hijack but my wife is having the same problem with her 10'. She is at ~100k and out of warranty, this is a very simple part to replace, but my question is is this a part that needs to be programmed by a technician? or is it as simple as plug, play, clear code and go? I really want to avoid paying for ford to diagnose an already solved problem, charge me for a brand new part when i can get a used one for $150, and charge me for labor. All together i'm assuming i would save at least $300 if i can change this part myself. Please help, thanks. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fourman Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 my car seems to have developed the dreaded bad TB. my check engine light stays on and the wrench comes on when it starts really acting up. when i bought my car i saw on the carfax that it had already been replaced about 20k miles ago so i thought that may be a good to go... apparently no such luck. i was in a hurry to get someplace this evening when my car lost all power and wouldnt respond to pedal input so i limped it home and changed cars instead of getting the code read immediately, but my suspicion is the TB. i bought the car with a 6 month 6k mile warranty and am well inside those parameters, but i am unsure what that covers. in the event this is not covered, what are you guys doing for replacement? any source i should look into? i did a quick ebay search and see several for cheap and with 60 day warranties, but i think new would probably be better and the ones i saw said they were specifically for the 3.5. would those be interchangeable? the price i saw listed above in this thread sounds insane and i am sure it is heavily padded by labor fees which i would like to avoid... if i can build a beast of an engine for my GTO, i am certainly capable of replacing my own TB. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasThumper Posted July 28, 2012 Share Posted July 28, 2012 I had the same TB issue a few weeks ago. I replaced the throttle body and had a buddy at napa clear the CEL. I have had no problems since then. The TB only cost me $200 from the dealership and I installed in 5 minutes. Good luck 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtbtexas Posted August 10, 2012 Share Posted August 10, 2012 I had the same issue with my 2010 Mercury MIlan 3.0 last fall. I took it in to my local Ford dealer for a check. As a side note the Operations Manager is my friend & neighbor so I knew I was going to be told the straight scoop. What it turned out to be, after not being able to bring up a code deep into the ECU they had remidied the problem by replacing the whole throttlebody with a new unit. Of course I was a couple thosand miles out of warrantee & had buy it. I now have 76K on the car without a hitch. The prognosis may not be what you wanted to hear, but that will probably be what you will ultimately wind-up doing. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avanwor Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 2010 Fusion Hybrid throwing a P2112 Code: Folks, Like Texas Thumper, I was able to install a replacement TB myself in just a few minutes! This video tells you how to do it, piece of cake! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ew-lRLFBtrI You only need two tools, a flat tip screwdriver (To release the red clip on the electronic plug), and an 8mm socket. I got my replacement part from Rock Auto. http://www.rockauto.com/ They consistently have the best prices, great fast delivery service, and easy returns if you determine you don't need your part. The longer version: The Wrench icon began showing up a week ago, followed by the check engine light. With the check engine light, the car would still drive, but I noticed that on slight uphills, I might only get 30 to 35 MPH out of it. So while you can get around with the check engine light on, I recommend not to get out on high speed highways, but to stay to lower speed roads. My scanner only showed a P2112 code, nothing else. The code was easy to clear, and the car would run fine for a little while, but then it came on again two days later, and would keep coming on. I removed the original throttle body, and cleaned it with CRC brand Throttle Body Cleaner, but it still triggered the code after about 25 miles more driving. So that's when I ordered the replacement TB, and installed it yesterday following the advice on the youtube video. Don't forget to disconnect the Negative Battery Cable! I found my replacement TB at Rock Auto, DORMAN 977300. there were other sites out there selling the DORMAN, but they were all more expensive. Other sites like Advance Auto were asking $129 for this part, but Rock Auto only asks about $76! Even with next day shipping, it only set me back $91. I did read where Ford has re-engineered the TB to be more reliable in the future, so I did consider buying a new TB from the Ford Parts desk, but I've had good luck with Dorman parts before, so I went for the Rock Auto purchase. If you have a local parts store with the part in stock, many companies will price match Rock Auto's internet price, just bring a printed copy from their web page. This way, you get it in your hands immediately and save shipping costs too. None of our local stores had the TB in stock though. Some of you may be asking why I didn't go to the dealer since the TB has apparently been granted an extended warranty by Ford for the recognized high failure rate. I did try getting our local dealer to fix it, but I was very disappointed. They said that I would have to leave the car at least 3 to 4 days, and they did not have any loaner cars, so for my money, I'd rather have spent the $91 doing it myself. Plus, I have the knowledge and confidence of knowing exactly how the repair was done, I've added to my knowledge of my car, and I've avoided any hassle with the dealer, (who as we all know, sometimes find other things they "Strongly Recommend" you get fixed. I hope this helps folks. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drolds1 Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 Good post. No need to justify paying out of pocket, as the extended warranty on the TB doesn't apply to the hybrid for some reason anyway. You saved yourself a bundle there. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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