Body roll in the twistees

[Rodrigo]

I drove my 2011 sport awd on a 100-mile winding road trip to Whistler mountain this weekend and felt a bit of body roll in the twistees 62-74 mph, where my wife's 2012 focus hatchback had virtually zero roll. Is this due to that fusion's weight? Both cars had around 400 lb. load (passenger and cargo), but the Focus seemed to whiz through the turns quicker and with more stability.

 

I was doing my darnest to drive the best line, hitting the apexes as much as i could, braking on a straight line, etc, but seemed to fail in comparison to the Focus. The body roll is not nearly as pronounced as say, a Ford Escape, but it makes me wonder if the sheer size and weight of the vehcile (vs the small and light Focus) makes it less nimble... or if stock suspension setting plays a part in it (thus calling for a stiffer and maybe lower setup)???

 

I like the passing abilty and 'power when needed' ability of the sport, particularly in the straights and steeper ascents, but would like to resolve (at least in my mind) what is causing the body roll or if this can be reduced or eliminated.

[FusionDiffusion]

The new Focus is really set up well (remember it was designed for European twisties). It was right in it's element going up and down those hills and sharp curves, so it's going to be tough finding a larger car that can compete with it.

 

I've driven the previous generation Focus (2010) and have to say that it compares well with the Sport. You can throw it in and out of turns fairly easily, but I would say the steering wasn't quite as precise as the Sport once you're in the turn. The Sport does have a little body roll due to it's weight, but it feels fairly well managed by the anti-sway bars. If you avoid abrupt steering inputs at the beginning of the turn I think it does quite nicely. You have to remember in your case it's essentially a 2-ton car, so it's just not going to have quite the same nimble feeling as the much lighter Focus.

 

To help, the first thing I would check/change is the tire pressure. I put a little more air in the front tires (37-38 psi) to help with the steering feel and bite as you enter turns. Sometimes 35 psi makes the steering feel sluggish especially when the tires are cold. Leave the rear tires at 35-36 psi.

 

The other option is to change the sway bars. Steeda sells race sway-bars that should reduce body roll. I'm not sure how much better they are than the stock Sport bars, though.

[Rodrigo]

You are spot on with the sport's behavior (and the focus!). I noticed that once I power out of a turn, the fusion obliges and takes me where i want to go. Point-and-shoot, so to speak. This is my first experience with it in twistees and I am still in the "getting to know" phase with the car. This car has so much potential as it is (i.e. stock), IMO, and I aim to optimize this by learning more about it and how it behaves vis-a-vis my driving inputs.

 

I'll try your tire pressure idea next run...

[umm_me]

The steeda front strut bar is a cheap very easy install and will help the steering feel tighter and reduce the roll a little bit.

 

the steeda rear sway bar will NOT fit your AWD Fusion. You can use a whiteline rearsway bar designed for the mazdaspeed 6. I bought mine from here

http://cd3performance.com/Ford-Fusion/FF-Chassis/Whiteline-Adjustable-Rear-Sway-Bar

 

I installed my rearsway bar with the steeda endlinks and H&R lowering springs all at the same time. Body Roll is just gone and the point and shoot aspect is at a whole new level.

 

 

Being AWD your lowering spring options are limited... the H&R are *low* and a little stiff, if that concerns you at all I hear good things about the Steeda springs being very similar to stock comfort and not too low at all, even for those w/ rough winters.

[BlackBetty]

I know what you mean, my old '99 Cougar had basically race suspension and handled like its on rails but was a super rough ride.

 

I think the Fusion is a great mix between ride quality and handling. I find that is does have a bit of body roll but the AWD helps it stick to the ground.

 

Like mentioned above you can invest in some sway bars and play with your tire pressure. If that doesn't work you can give a strut bar a shot and then move into lowing springs with a more aggressive strut. But that might take away from your ride quality.

 

 

[3 point 5]

Steeda springs and the Steeda STB make a world of difference. Some of the body roll has something to do with stock tires as well. A good summer tire will correct some that. I think I would be more happy with a different rear sway bar. You have to understand though. The AWD fusion is a way way heavier car. Curb weight is 3,800 pounds, the focus is 2,900 pounds. Huge difference...

[Rodrigo]

The steeda front strut bar is a cheap very easy install and will help the steering feel tighter and reduce the roll a little bit.

 

the steeda rear sway bar will NOT fit your AWD Fusion. You can use a whiteline rearsway bar designed for the mazdaspeed 6. I bought mine from here

http://cd3performanc...e-Rear-Sway-Bar

 

I installed my rearsway bar with the steeda endlinks and H&R lowering springs all at the same time. Body Roll is just gone and the point and shoot aspect is at a whole new level.

 

 

Being AWD your lowering spring options are limited... the H&R are *low* and a little stiff, if that concerns you at all I hear good things about the Steeda springs being very similar to stock comfort and not too low at all, even for those w/ rough winters.

Nice inputs. I like hearing from people who have "made it work". Changing the front bar sounds like a good starting point (particularly, if it gives a tighter steering feel!).

[MonoxideChild]

keep in mind a ton of braces sold for the mazda6 will fit on the fusion also. and you can really go overboard with suspension stuff.

 

im on

Ksport coil overs

Racing beat rear sway bar

Steeda front sway bar

GTspec trailling links

Streetunit trunk brace

JDMgoodie front strut tower bar

Racing beat front and rear end links

Steeda X brace

Megan H brace

KMR rear 4 point chassis brace

 

and sadly im probably forgetting stuff. lol

[machonemoto]

Just another '10 SP owner that enjoys this car for what it is. Corners are only place I up pace and have learned thru repetition that, w/ spec'd wheel rates (suspension, shocks, springs, damp curves, u know) and balance set-up (ride ht, weight bias, etc.) as received, it is a point and shoot (diamond in nascar) type chassis not just because of fwd but also the front heaviness. The suspension rates are decent enough to be predictable and controllable at a very brisk pace (ESC OFF). It is beneficial to have rpm in mid area of torque band (3000-3500) from as early as possible from corner entry with throttle open (steady state, meaning constant speed, not accel), make largest steering input possible (late apex) to aim at exit, then apply throttle as steering is trimmed out. The key behind all of this is having the front suspension in an "ANTI-SQUAT" condition when making direction changes. This is a can of worms to explain sufficiently or properly in this environment. Just know that all vehicles are in their most stable (balance state) when moving at a constant speed under constant throttle. Smooth, deliberate inputs while using throttle to add or reduce anti-squat will reward w/ extreme satisfaction when walking around the outside of a high dollar german sedan w/ hardly anymore contact patch, but about 500-1000 lbs to carry.