2010-2012 Ford Fusion Audi Style LED Projector Headlights

[FusionSVT]

Hello everyone, I found these projector headlights for the 10-12 fusion, they look alright but i want some other feedback of how they look, if anyone has them in thiei fusion post pictures!

 

Thanks!

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PEARL-BLACK-2010-2012-FORD-FUSION-LED-DRIVING-LIGHTS-PROJECTOR-HEADLIGHTS-LAMPS-/290794667985?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AFord|Model%3AFusion&hash=item43b4b67fd1&vxp=mtr

[Bwildr]

Hello everyone, I found these projector headlights for the 10-12 fusion, they look alright but i want some other feedback of how they look, if anyone has them in thiei fusion post pictures!

 

Thanks!

 

http://www.ebay.com/...4b67fd1&vxp=mtr

 

I saw these the other day. I really like the design of them to be honest, and for someone who already has a set of after market HIDs, it'll be easy just to plug them into the new set of headlights I'm looking to get a pair after the winter.

[ThisJustIn]

I have been eyeing these for a few weeks now.....I really want to see them installed on someone's car with day and night pics before I make the purchase....(lowering kit first).....The design looks super legit....

[MonoxideChild]

You know, most every set of 'Ebay" headlights ive seen for other cars on ebay have looked horribly cheap, and just stuck out as Rice to me. But that set actually looks pretty good from the pics they supply. Id love to see what they look like on an ectual members car.

[rpoffen]

I asked for (and received) these for Xmas. I have looked them over and the quality looks very good. I have not installed them yet, the project seems a bit daunting. I am not sure just how to get the old ones out without removing the entire front bumber cover, and/or the wheel well liners. There are no instructions included. But that is a subject probably for a separate post in this forum.

Back to the headlights, they are marked as made in Taiwan, but the finish and overall impression looks good. I also asked for (and got) a DDM tuning HID kit. I ordered the 55w H1 (because these new light assemblies take H1, not H11). They came stock with 55W halogen bulbs so there should not be an issue with the 55W HID's. I plan to carefully examine the mounting of the HID bulbs for the best way to wire them. The back of the low beam projector housing has a cap that removes by turning it clockwise a quarter turn to expose the back of the bulb. This cap has a grommet with a place for two wires. I plan to run the HID wires through here rather than where the wires comes out to the stock type connector. I can then wire the relay kit to the low beam wires as they go to the connector. This makes it cleaner for the HID bulb.

As soon as I get all this installed and working, I will post pictures.

[FusionSVT]

Thats great rpoffen!... Just to let you know, you have to remove the bumper to remove the stock headlights, its a pain in the ass but its worth it. Post some pics once you finish installing them!

[MonoxideChild]

You dont have to remove the entire front bumper, Just the bumper cover. Which really isnt that bad.

[durasel]

Looking foward to seeing these on an actual Fusion!!

[rpoffen]

Looking foward to seeing these on an actual Fusion!!

That's my project this weekend. I actually bought a service manual for the car and it shows exactly how to take the front bumper cover off.

[rpoffen]

I finished my install. Here are the pics. If there are any other angles you want to see let me know.

I will followup with a post with more details on what I found during the install.

 

 

[rpoffen]

Here are my notes on the installation of these headlights.

 

1.) First remove the front bumper cover retaining hardware. Remove the following screws, bolts, and push pins..

- 10 screws on the bottom (7mm socket or wrench required)

- 3 push pins in the fender well on each side

- 4 bolts on top (10mm socket or wrench required)

- 8 push pins on top

 

2.) Once all the hardware is removed, you have to grab each side of the cover where it meets the fender panel and pull. You have to tug a bit since it's snapped in to the fender. Put something underneath (towel or something soft) since it can scratch the underside of the cover if it drops on a hard floor.

 

3.) Disconnect the side marker and fog lamps.

 

4.) For each headlight assembly, remove 4 bolts, two on top, one on the inside front, and one on the ouside edge by the fender panel. The assembly should pull straight out allowing easy disconnect of the headlight and turn signal connectors.

 

5.) Transfer the turn signal bulb socket (quarter turn to remove) from the old assembly to the new.

 

6.) If you are installing the new LED assembly as-is, then plug in the headlight and turn signal connectors, and install the new assembly in the vehicle, paying attention to the guide pins on the front and side of the assembly. At this time, finger tight the bolts that hold in the assembly. This is because once installed, the aim adjustment screws are impossible to get at. The easiest way I found to aim them is to use a wall or garage door to get an idea of where the beam pattern is, then drive the car to a flat street at night and see if it looks about right. Mine were way to high. This could partly be because I put a HID kit in at the same time and the adjustment might be different due to bulb geometry. Once I saw about how much and where I needed to adjust it, I pulled the assembly far enough to get on the adjustment screws and turn them a bit in the desired direction. NOTE: While the screws are labeled which ones they are (molded in the assemplt itself next to the screws), the Up/Down screw is labeled backwards, turing in the up direction actually brought the beam down and vice-versa. The right/left screw label was correct. I repeated the procedure until it was where I wanted it. If modifying for a HID kit, see my notes in the next post.

 

7.) The LED halo lights are powered by a separate pair of wires coming from the unit. I used small pin style connectors to extend the wires so the assembly could be removed without cutting them. The black wire goes a a good ground (there is one on the driver side near the battery). The white wire I ran to a fuse tap on fuse 39 in the BJB (Battery Junction Box). This is hot with the key in the run position, so it is automatic whenever the car is running.

 

8.) Once I had everything working, I tightened all the headlight assembly bolts, re-installed the bumber cover and re-installed all the screws and push pins.

[rpoffen]

Continuation of my LED halo headlight installation notes.

I got a 55w HID kit from DDM tuning to go with these. I decided to do it all at the same time.

Note that these headlight assemblies take an H1 bulb, NOT the H11 like the stock assemblies. So when ordering a kit, get the H1 kit. You will also need the relay kit since the Fusion (and presumeably all or most late model Ford's) actually pulse width modulate the halogen headlights when the engine is running. More details in this thread http://www.fordfusionforum.com/topic/9315-hids-still-flicker-with-relay-help/.

Because HID's use significantly higher voltage than halogen bulbs, they have separate wires with special connectors to connect to the ballast. The headlight assembly has a cap behind the projector assembly to access the bulb (this cap removes by turning clockwise, not CCW.) which has a rubber grommet with two wire holes in it. The only real way I could see to do this properly, and still maintain a water seal was to cut the HID wires, pull them out of the grommet that come with the HID bulbs, feed them through this grommet in the cap, solder the wires back together, and cover with 3 layers of heat shrink tubing. This way you can install and remove the bulb simply when the cap is off. Since you are disconnecting the spade connectors from the H1 bulb and not using them, tape the spade connectors up real well and leave them disconnected. This way if you have to switch back to stock bulbs, you have not destroyed anything. When installing the HID bulbs, you need to tweak the spring retainer a little. When re-installing the cap with the HID wires, carefully pull the slack out as you slide the cap on. When tightening the cap, it turns CCW, make sure you turn it all the way till it kind of snaps in place to ensure a tight seal.

The relay HID bulbs come with a connector that plugs into the relay kit the other end terminates in spade terminals. This was intended to pick up the usual headlight on voltage to energize the relay. Since it is not really practical to use this in a projector type assembly, I cut the spade terminals off, pulled the wire out of the grommet that comes with the HID bulbs and use wire taps to tap into the wires (blue/black) on the new assembly. I did this on the driver side assembly since you only need one signal to energize the relay. I use the passenger side connector to wire in a 22uf 50v capacitor to solve the flicker problem noted in the thread above.

The ballasts I mounted directly to the bumber metal just below where the headlights mount. Just test for where they fit best before drilling and screwing them down. I suggest screwing them down with a screw on each end so they are stable.

The fused hot lead for the main power to the relay I wired to the BJB main battery terminal, and the ground at the screw terminal near the battery as noted in the previous post. Connect all the ballsst connectors to the relay kit and HID bulbs. Dress up the wires so they don't get pinched or caught in anything, then install the assemblies as noted in the previous post.

Good luck!

[nygbrad]

Looks pretty good. How do you like them?

 

I am about to do a retro on mine in the next month and was wondering if I should spend the money on these.

 

Are they plastic or glass?

[rpoffen]

Looks pretty good. How do you like them?

 

I am about to do a retro on mine in the next month and was wondering if I should spend the money on these.

 

Are they plastic or glass?

I like them a lot. The high beams (stock H1 bulbs) don't seem to have much effect, seems like they are pointed low (there is no real focussing on them, and no adjustments), but it could just be that they are totally swamped out by the HID's. Then again, the HID's do so well I don't think I really need high beams much. They seem well worth the money. I have seen assemblies that cost more and are far worse in quality and performance.

They are plastic. I don't know of any headlight assemblies, aftermarket or OEM that are glass anymore. Too fragile and would break when hit with stones or pebbles.

I can't say how strong the plastic is, only time will tell if it holds up to rocks, sandblasting effect, or yellowing.

[durasel]

Can you tell us how they're holding up?

[rpoffen]

They are holding up fine. No problems. No scratches or fading on the plastic lens (still pretty early to notice if the plastic will keep its clarity for a long time). The LED's are all still functioning.

No problems with the HID's either (knock on wood).

[durasel]

Any updates on them holding up??

[PublicHair]

Real hid projectors and switchback LEDs.

[teport]

very late to this party but better late than never. I just bought a 2010 Fusion Sport that had these headlights installed for about a year and a half. I love the look of them but there are a few things that I am not sure about.

1. Is the outside clear plastic has flaked about half way down the light. it really isn't a huge deal. You can BARELY see where it is flaking and in areas where it has flaked off looks just as good as where it is still on.

2. Is that if you do not get Bulbs (Fog, Lowbeams and Hibeams) that are not white white (maybe a hint of blue) they don't match and it looks cheap.

3. I don't know if it is the lens, or the bulb but the headlights aren't very bright. (hoping get a HID kit soon)

4. My lights aren't automatic like yours. They turn on when I turn all my DRL light on, I don't mind that. but automatic would be better.

 

 

You say to make them automatically turn on and off you hook it to fuse 39 in the BJB. do they still come on when you unlock you car and all the other lights come on?

[rpoffen]

1. I have not noticed any flaking of the plastic.

2. I did not but HID's in the fog lamps (I did put UltraStar's in, but not nearly as white/blue as HID's). I am not the typical driver that turns their FAG lights on just to have them on and there is no FOG around (I especially hate those that drive European cars that have rear FAG lights on that you are very bright when you are behind them and look like they are riding their brakes, but I digress). FOG lights are more effective when they are a more yellow color. Where I live, we sometimes get Tule fog in the winter which can be so thick, visibility can drop to 30 feet or less, so I need effective FOG lights, not something just to turn on to annoy other drivers.

3. HID helps a lot with the brightness.

4. I can't recall seeing any US spec Fusions with DRL's enabled. They seem to come from the factory with them disabled, but I think you can have the dealer enable them. They are required in Canada spec cars though. Perhaps you mean the automatic headlights, which is not the same as DRL. If you truly have DRL's, then you might have significant issues putting in a HID kit.

If you mean the automatic headlights, then they simply wired the LED's to the headlight feed rather than run the wire to the BJB. I wanted mine to be sort of a DRL like what Audi's and many new cars are doing.

Edited January 9, 2014 by rpoffen

[teport]

I almost wonder if whoever had it before me added some of that spray tint. i will see if i can get a picture.

HID's for fogs, I agree are really a waste of money and time. They don't really bother me if they are more yellow, the brownish dull bulbs I think look bad (which is what i have now) I use my fog light a lot in the winter time. if we don't have fog then we have disgusting inversion. (when I shouldn't be driving my 3.5L). I noticed that my fog lights were not adjusted properly, at 10 ft they barely hit 4 inchs. I am going to check my headlights to see if that is the case when I get new bulbs (maybe even do an HID Convertion)

By DRL, I really mean just my Marker lights or Park lights. I use those quite a bit. since my commute is during dusk and dawn. If I could have just those lights turn on with my ignition switch on then that would be even better.

after seeing your lights it makes me want to get HIDs to clean up the look of the front.

[rpoffen]

It should be fairly easy to take the wire that powers the halo LED's and re-run it where you want, to the parking lamps or to the BJB.

[k3llogskid]

Hi everyone! Total noob, but where did you buy these lights from? I'm looking on Ebay but wanted to know if there was a direct aftermarket site I could buy from that would be reputable? I love the looks of these and debating putting these on my car.

 

Sorry about the super bump! I saw January so I thought it was from this year.

Edited January 9, 2015 by k3llogskid