BRoseJr. Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Sorry so Long, any help is GREATLY appreciated. Idler pulley bolt has broken atleast 7 times in last 2 years. Before the first time (65k) I would hear the squealing noise upon startup in the mornings, but would go away. Not very long after that pulley bolt broke while driving. After that it would happen every 5-8k and I would know to replace when I would start hearing squealing noise and idler pulley would be tilted in towards engine and bolt would be bent. I have replaced belt tensioner and belt with no luck at all. Last 2 times this has happened it only lasted for about 2 weeks. Starting to believe it is compressor clutch, when AC/defroster is on you can feel car vibrate while idling in drive or at stop light. No vibration when in park or neutral. Do you guys think the AC compressor could be faulty and causing the extra load on the idler pulley, resulting in bolt breaking? Also have contacted FORD with no luck at all, but they stated there was a TSB. Anyone else have similar issues? Thanks in advance for any info!!! 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fusionfamily Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 There is a TSB to replace the belt and tensioner with a revised version (TSB 07-23-3), but this only applies to 2006MY (yours probably came with the revised version). First things first - make sure that (once you replace the pulley yet again) everything lines up 100%. I have seen LOTS of non-Ford tensioners sit cock-eyed right out of the box (I don't know if the replacement tensioner and idler you put on were Motorcraft or aftermarket). Also - with the engine running, watch the belt - especially around the tensioner - is the belt flopping around? Is the tensioner moving a lot (a little bit of movement is normal)? With the belt off, check ALL the pulleys to make sure everything spins relatively freely (except the crank pulley / harmonic balancer). Start with that, let us know what you find! 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRoseJr. Posted February 28, 2013 Author Share Posted February 28, 2013 Thanks FF! All parts I have replaced have been Motorcraft. I have even tried an upgraded bolt with no luck. Everything looked to be lined up the last time I replaced idler pulley a few weeks ago. Upon cold start it seems as if the power steering pump/pulley is making a loud whining noise which quiets after a while. Possibly power steering pump/pulley putting the extra load which is causing the idler bolt to fail??? RPMS will also dip to around 500 when placed in D or R with a pretty good vibration too. Not noticable when accelerating or driving, more noticable at stop lights. For the belt tensioner, I guess easiet way is to see through wheel well? Thanks for any help! 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fusionfamily Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 You might be able to see from the top at just the right angle... to see it from the side / bottom you have to remove the fender liner (a bunch of 10mm bolts, one push tab, and bunch of 7mm? (Or 5.5mm? can't remember it's been a few weeks since I last had one off!). For the pump - check the fluid - see if it's aerating... You could have a pump or rack issue. I've never had to replace a pump or rack yet, but anything is possible, the RPMs shouldn't be dipping that low. Also may want to check the roll restrictor, excessive movement from wear can cause the engine to do weird things (everything from yanking vacuums line off to damaging wiring... LOL). I'll see if I can dig up any known issues with the rack or pump... 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fusionfamily Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 Also - if you had access to a gauge, it would be nice to be able to check the pump's pressure (on the high side, not the return line). The specs are... 648 kPa (94 psi) Fluid @ 74°-80°C (165°-175°F) Engine @ 2000 rpm 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRoseJr. Posted March 13, 2013 Author Share Posted March 13, 2013 Well, started the car this morning and yet again, pulley bolt extremely bent and belt half way off power steering pump. Just about at my wits end with this problem. Never had any other problems except THIS one, just so happens it has always reared its ugly head. Not sure what would cause that much force to bend/break this bolt repeatedly. I will take pics and try to post later. Also what is the roll restrictor you stated above? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FusionDiffusion Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 I want to see pictures, so please post. Please show if the bolt is belt solidly or if it bent as a result of a stress fracture. Were you running the A/C or defrost recently so the A/C compressor was running? I'm wondering if you have some sort of destructive resonance occurring due to a faulty pump. After changing the tensioner in the past, was the tensioner moving at all when you had the engine running or the A/C compressor running? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRoseJr. Posted March 13, 2013 Author Share Posted March 13, 2013 I will take pictures and post once I get home from work Bolt is currently bent, but (as hard as it seems to believe) in the past when the bolt is bent all I had to do was move pulley to completely break (this is even after driving home 20 miles with it bent!). I ran the defrost/heat this morning only when at cruising speed, at lights if running you can feel pretty good vibration. A few months back I recharged compressor due to constant cycling. Cycling of compressor went away, along with heavy vibration, but can feel vibration now even when turning on while in drive. I have yet to check tensioner while running but will this weekend. Beyond frustrated with this problem lol. THANKS for listening and helping out, it is appreciated! 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hsullivan Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 Any word on this? My bolt broke, I took it to my garage, they replaced it, and it happened again 1500 miles later. They've replaced it for free the second time, but said it's a common problem with Fusion's and I should consider selling it.... although I can't very well do that with a clear conscience. I'm currently thankful for great public transportation, as I'm afraid to drive it . Thanks all. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marco DeBenedictis Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 Hi, I sought out answers to the same problem IM having with my '08 Milan and fortunately it lead me here. . Im on my 4th snap of the bolt. Has anyone been able to get a definitive answer on this issue yet? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06blackfusion427 Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 Just had my 2nd bolt break on my 06 fusion. Anybody figure this thing out? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chalybs Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Just wanted to post an FYI as I have been having this issue for the last 2 1/2 years and have gone through 14 idler pulley bolts. Finally found that the threads on the front cover where the idler pulley bolts to are worn out, so the idler pulley will bolt on, but not securely causing wear and friction to eventually shear the bolt. Just got it replaced so I will update in a couple of months with whether or not it finally fixed the issue. I have high hopes as I have replaced everything else in the accessory belt chain except the A/C compressor which had a full diagnostic run with no problems. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06blackfusion427 Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Thanks for the info chalybs! This is a big help! 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06blackfusion427 Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 After our second bolt broke, our mechanic installed a longer bolt, and installed a nut where it sticks out of the back of the hole. This was about 2 months ago. So far no issue. Will post any updates. I also talked to an engineer at Ford, and he recommended using Loctite. Make sure you use the removable type. I don't believe my mechanic put Loctite on so we'll see what happens. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chalybs Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 Just wanted to update, almost 3 months and 5000 miles later, idler pulley and bolt still going strong. Usually I would only go a month at most so things are looking up as to the wear on the threads in the front cover being the cause. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRoseJr. Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 Chalybs, when you say you got the "front cover" where the pulley threads into, replaced; what exactly do you mean? On my 2007 Fusion is threads into an "ear" off the cast of the block. Did you have the threads re-tapped? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadowReaper81 Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 What he means is that his idler pulley is secured onto the timing cover. Some mounted to this cover and others are mounted on a cast ear off the engine block. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadowReaper81 Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 Just wanted to update any new viewers that i had to replace mine twice in 2 weeks. After the second bolt broke less than a week of being installed, i bought a tap and die set from harbor freight and re-tapped the threads where the bolt goes in as the threads were worn out. I also took a bench grinder to the end of the new bolt that has no threads and got a nut to install on the backside of the bolt. After driving for 2 weeks now everything seems to be perfect. Fortunetly i work for a company that has '07 Fusions and talked to our fleet mechanic on the reoccuring problem and found that the threads being worn out will cause it to snap since it does not have a good bite on the mount. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clayoneal Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 My idler pulley broke at 137,000 and I replaced it with a grade 12.9... which broke about 2000 miles later! Finding no other issues with the belt system but indeed finding LOTS of posts of the same problem, this time I drilled the hole to 11/32" and tapped it for a 10mm bolt to replace that little 8mm bolt...the cast slot in the timing cover is already large enough, and drilling the pulley bearing bushing to 13/32" was also easy enough. Access to the engine was achieved by lowering the R/side cradle and engine mount, then drilling a hole just below the welded frame near the brake line retainer... I had to grind a hex on my drill bit to accept a 6" hex extension to reach the engine block, but the drilling took less than one minute! Let's hope this stronger bolt fixes the problem for good. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRoseJr. Posted October 23, 2015 Author Share Posted October 23, 2015 Guys, any updates if your fixes worked. I am going to attempt to either retap or drill to bigger size hole as clayoneal stated. I was thinking about just having the Ford dealer put on a new timing belt cover to be done with it 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadowReaper81 Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 BRoseJr.: I installed a new pulley and had that new one break less than 1k miles less than a week later. I purchased a tap and die kit from harbor freight and re-tapped the threads before installing a new pulley. I also grinded down the end of the stud on the new pulley and installed a locking washer and nut. Since I did this, I've driven over 7500 miles with no problems at a duration of 3 months and going. I did all this with just hand tools in a dark driveway with just a headlamp. Had the mechanic in the motor pool at work check it after I installed and re-tapped the threads and he said it looked good and what he would have done. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparkydm Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 (edited) Is your pulley bolted to an ear on a casting? My daughter's Milan just had the bolt break for the third time yesterday. Car DOA in driveway now. 3rd time. Last time was 5 months ago. Edited January 2, 2016 by Sparkydm 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DEdgar Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 HI folks,I've been through several (at least 8 or 10) idler pulleys, and they keep bending/breaking. I'm wondering if there is a fix? I saw where a couple of you noted some success with tapping/drilling, etc. Before I do any of that, can any of you give an update on how your repairs are currently holding up? Any help is appreciated. Car has done fine, except for these dang idler pulleys!! 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRoseJr. Posted July 1, 2016 Author Share Posted July 1, 2016 Thanks for the update guys! I am going to attempt to retap mine, as I rarely drive this care anymore, due to the issues with a 2 dollar bolt! I tried everything short of retapping the hole. Edgar, i broke about 10 or so as well, very frustrating to the point my wife did not feel safe driving the car any longer. Very poor design by Ford, but told it wouldnt be a recall, because it wasn't a safety issue. Well, try driving down the road at 60mph and the bolt breaking, causing serpentine belt to fly off, and have no power steering! Any further updates?? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cansada1 Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 i have a 2012 2.3L, on my 4th bolt. Any thing new on a fix? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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