akirby Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 I thought the rust through warranty was longer than that? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drolds1 Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 Was this car a dealer demo or registered to the dealer before you took delivery? The "in service" date for warranty purposes is spelled out quite clearly in the warranty guide: KNOW WHEN YOUR WARRANTY BEGINS Your Warranty Start Date is the day you take delivery of your new vehicle or the day it is first put into service (for example, as a dealer demonstrator), whichever occurs first. If it was a demo, etc., then the corrosion warranty began 6/9/09. If not, then the warranty start date is 9/9/09 and should be in effect until 9/9/14. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyT Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 Looked at my trunk lid today, and noticed the paint starting to bubble right at the point where that trim meets the trunk lid on each side. I may pull that trim off soon and see what it looks like underneath and make sure it doesn't go up and under that panel. Of course, since there's no perforation, it's not covered under warranty. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueOval2010 Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 When I fixed the rust spot last year, I just loosened the trim enough to tool the spot and the trim and applied a little inhibitor. The spot is back so I need to completely remove the trim to repair it. The (4) torx screws with the black 11mm nuts only back out about half way then they just turn without coming loose. I tried pulling up on the trim while trying to back them out with no luck. The 10mm nuts zipped right off. Before I get medieval, I like some advice. Has anybody had this problem or have a solution? - Thanks 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dooo Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 If the nut is turning with the screw (I think it's a stud) then you can hold the torx part with vice grips or pliers and turn the nut with a wrench. the stud is also screwed into the plastic on the inside. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueOval2010 Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 Yep - that works. The 10mm nuts spin right off, and so do the studs. Seems to me the 11mm's would do the same thing. Maybe the studs were over torqued and stripped out when they installed them at the factory. I had to order the touch-up paint and it won't be in until tomorrow. I'll post pics if I find anything unusual. Thanks for the help. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dooo Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 I don't think yours will be as nasty as mine... 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueOval2010 Posted August 6, 2014 Share Posted August 6, 2014 Wow! that is bad. Good thing you caught it when you did. Now if the dealer can get my t/u paint I'll be in business. They had to order it. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueOval2010 Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Ok, I fixed the rust again and did a better job this time; looks good. As I was removing the chrome trim, the lens from one of the license plate lights feel off. The screws were so rusted there was hardly any threads left. Bought two new plate light kits - $26 ea. The guy at the parts counter said to keep the sales ticket and apply for a refund. These are the same lights that are in the Taurus and Ford recalled those. Just FYI in case you have the same issue. I'll let you know how I come out with the refund. Hey! stop laughing, it could happen. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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