lmconti2580 Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 I have an 2006 Ford Fusion SE. The vehicle is experiencing a parasitic draw of about 110mA. I've found that the draw is coming from fuse 19 in the underhood fuse panel. This circuit is one of the "12V Always Hot" circuits that powers components controlled by the BCM, or as Ford calls it, the "Smart Junction Box". I have already determined that it is not the Smart Junction Box, as well as a few other components powered by that circuit. I've read on another post that it was a navigation system problem. The vehicle is not equipped with any such equipment. I've also verified that neither an underhood light nor the trunk light are staying on. There aren't any TSBs regarding such an issue. I've also checked 2005 & 2007 with no luck. Has anyone else experienced this problem? If so, what advice might you have for me as a technician? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FusionDiffusion Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 Fuse 19 is only used to feed the SJB logic, nothing else. So the only thing that could draw power from that is the circuits inside the SJB itself. Before you get too far, is 110 mA the current reading after letting the car sit without touching anything for 40 minutes? FYI the 40 minutes starts when you connect and turn on your multimeter. I've seen many people try to chase down a parasitic draw that wasn't there because they didn't wait for the SJB to go into sleep mode. Otherwise everything SJB-related works? Exterior lighting, interior lighting, door ajar alerts, keyless entry, locks, windows, trunk release, etc? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmconti2580 Posted March 5, 2013 Author Share Posted March 5, 2013 I'd say that the longest I let the car sit was approximately 20 min with ammeter connected. I'll go for the full 40 minutes next time I look at the car. I did see one of the diagrams illustrating that the fuse #19 circuit led into the SJB and into a logic module, rectangle box that read "LOGIC". These are diagrams I'm pulling off Shopkey5. The initial concern was that after the car sat approx. 8 hours, the battery was dead. I performed several load tests on the battery, and checked charging system output. Didn't find an issue with start/charge. I'll do a volt drop test between batt. and alt., make sure that's good. I haven't checked everything you've mentioned but I will as soon as I get my hands on the car again. I appreciate your response and I'll post my next findings asap. Thanks for the help. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FusionDiffusion Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 Yeah, the logic box in the diagram is sort of a generalization for all the circuity in the SJB. If you have a capable scan tool you can try checking the SJB for any codes as clues. Otherwise not much you can do with it other than replace it. In all honestly a 110 mA draw isn't that bad, and it's certainly not enough to drain a good battery in 8 hours. It might be an intermittent problem, but more than likely it's a problem with the battery, some aspect of the charging system, or the owner left something on or plugged in. (It sounds like this isn't your car, right?) Question: how was the battery determined to be dead? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmconti2580 Posted March 5, 2013 Author Share Posted March 5, 2013 Nope, not my car it's my sisters. Your "Question:" now has me concerned. I've never actually had the car when the battery was dead. Hmm... Anyway, the owner would try to start the vehicle in the morning with no success. He would then use a charged jumper pack to start the vehicle. The owner has since been removing fuse #19 after he has finished using the car for the day. In the mornings, he'll reinstall the fuse and start the vehicle without an issue. And again, 110 mA doesn't seem very high to me either. I thought rule of thumb was maybe no more than 40-50 mA. Perhaps I'm confusing this threshold for "no more than 40 mV" on volt drop test. Perhaps my "rule" is more appropriately applied to a '78 LeSabre, not an '06 of any species. I was also considering that maybe my meter is drawing some current to power some circuit(s) in the meter, albeit very little if any. Maybe not. Perhaps tomorrow, I'll have an opportunity to do some deeper probing. BTW, it should be noted that this vehicle has been broken into several times. Radio(s), stereo equipment stolen. Maybe I'm dealing with an antitheft-related issue? Also, would an issue in the SJB set the MIL? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 Umm.......did you try changing the battery? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fusionfamily Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 An issue with the SJB would likely not set the MIL, but there may be a DTC. And if he's had to boost battery more than once, it may be time for a battery regardless. (what's the general rule, replace the battery after it's gone dead three times...?). Also - for the '06 Fusion, Ford only allows a 50mA draw (after the 40 mins), there aren't any aftermarket items wire up to the SJB? (ie: remote car starter, alarm, etc?). 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FusionDiffusion Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 Yes, less than 50 mA is the general guideline. However if you're draining a battery in 8 hours you're looking at a drain in the several amps or more range. +1 on doing a full overnight battery charge. If they have an aftermarket audio system that could be the culprit. Perhaps somebody tapped into the fuse 19 circuit for something? Also if they have big subwoofers they might be overloading the alternator and causing the battery to drain down. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
82cj7304 Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 Had a similar problem on my 08 Fusion. The dealer couldn't figure it out and wouldn't warranty my battery. Went outside one cold morning and noticed the windshield was frosted over everywhere except the middle. Turns out the stereo was bad and the current draw caused it to get warm even when the car was off. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSchild Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 I have a 2019 Fusion. For the third time, after the car sat in my garage while I was away, the battery was totally dead. The first time was a period of 9 days, two years ago, in extremely cold weather. AAA came out, jumped it and it was fine. Then a year ago, February 2023, the car sat for about 17 days while we were gone. Again, the battery was totally dead. AAA came out and replaced the battery. Now, we returned from Florida after being gone 17 days and sure enough, dead battery. AAA again jumped it and it is now fine. I called my dealer and they said I should put a trickle charge on it while gone. Why is this needed? Two friends were with me. When they returned, their cars that sat started just fine, a Honda CRV, GMC Acadia and a Buick Le Sabre. None of them had any problems. So what's up with the Fusion? Anyone else have this issue? Any suggestions? I have an extended warranty on the car. My dealer said I would still need to pay $178 for a scan of the car to determine any problems. The $178 is not covered. Ok. They would need the car for a couple of days. Any repairs might then be covered. Note the key word, "might". Just looking for ideas 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WKelley Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 If the battery is original then 4yrs is a bit of a gift in today's world for a battery. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSchild Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 Stopped by my dealer and also followed by phone. Both service people I talked to said it is the way the vehicle is manufactured and there is nothing they can do. It is manufactured so the battery totally discharges and will thus not destroy the battery. In only 19 days?? My only option is to by a "battery tender". As noted previously friends of mine, not Ford owners, had there vehicles sit for 5-6 weeks with no problems starting. I guess Honda and GM don't manufacture their cars to run the battery out after only 19 days. I "chatted" with Ford.com and they simply referred me to the owners manual that suggests totally disconnecting the battery. I really have liked my three Fusions I've had (sorry they discontinued it), but with the explanations, or lack thereof, I may need to try another brand. Anyone have any other ideas? Note to WKelly - Agree 4 years is pushing it in this day and age. The battery was replaced after the 2/23 incident and the new battery died again 2/24, again after only 19 days. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WKelley Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 (edited) Has anyone tried a voltage drop test? If not, and you have a multimeter you can do one. There's a few guys on Youtube that can help you through it, Pine Hollow Autodignostics is one I like. I agree you should get more than 19 days, but with all the modules in these newer cars it can be a crapshoot. Edited March 2 by WKelley 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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